Odd Old News: From Cloverdale to Eureka by Stage

Stagecoach in Ferndale July 24, 1889. [Photo from the Palmquist Collection of the Humboldt Room at HSU's library]

Stagecoach in Ferndale July 24, 1889. [Photo from the Palmquist Collection of the Humboldt Room at HSU’s library]

Nuggets of old news served up once a week by David Heller, one of our local historians.

Odd Old News has previously described portions of the earliest North/South stagecoach and wagon road to the North Coast via the Mail Ridge route. This week we share a travelogue written by a passenger who rode the entire distance from Cloverdale to Eureka on the Sanderson Stage Coach line in 1883 on a ‘pleasure trip.’

In 1874 Jonathan Cummings and family moved to the site of a mail carrier station along Rattlesnake Creek where the trail from newly named Laytonville turned north and went uphill to follow the ridgeline dividing the South Fork of the Eel River and the Main Eel River. This mountainous route was originally named the Cahto to Camp Grant trail on the earliest government surveyor PLAT maps. Over time it went by many names but was most commonly known as the Mail Ridge Trail. In 1877, Chinese labor completed the Mendocino County end of the Mail Ridge section of the Cloverdale to Humboldt wagon road and the route was opened for wheeled conveyances.

1880 Government PLAT map for Township 23 North, Range 15 West showing Cummings Station

1880 Government PLAT map for Township 23 North, Range 15 West showing Cummings Station.

(Cummings Station was located three miles east of the current location of Cummings on Highway 101. Rebuilt after a 1916 fire as the Cummings Motel, reincarnated later as the Farmhouse Inn, it is currently a private residence. Today’s Bell Springs road leaves Highway 101 a short distance away.)

( Photo insert of Cummings Hotel circa 1918, from the Robert J. Lee collection, courtesy of Diane Hawk, Touring the Old Redwood Highway, p. 123)

Cummings Hotel circa 1918 [Image from the Robert J. Lee collection, courtesy of Diane Hawk, Touring the Old Redwood Highway, p. 123]

Historian and author Kathy Tahja shared some early stagecoach passenger etiquette in an article for the Kelley House Making History Blog, “Traveling by Coach” in Mendocino county:

In 1877, travel tips for stagecoach passengers included doing what the driver told you, as well as getting out and walking when horses faced difficult terrain. Don’t grumble about food served at stage stops. Don’t flop against those seated next to you when you fall asleep. Don’t shoot from the coach as it may frighten the horses. If ladies are present, do not point out locations where robberies and murders have been committed. Don’t discuss religion or politics.”

Seems like good advice for peaceful traveling in any era.

The stagecoach ride travelogue that follows was written six years after the opening of the Mail Ridge Wagon Road by a passenger whose appreciation of the scenery along the route was apparently quite successful in distracting him from the more customary complaints of stage travel—constant bumps, jostling, dust, and inclement weather.

San Francisco to Eureka Overland
Humboldt Times
June 20, 1883
Times Telephone–The summer season has been opened with great eclat all over the State. But more particularly in San Francisco and among its denizens, Monterey with its Del Monte, Santa Cruz with its pebbly beach, San Diego with its climate, Calaveras with its big trees, Alameda with its baths, Tahoe with its beautiful lake and splendid trout-fishing, and last but not least, the famous Yosemite with its picturesque mountain scenery, its lonely valley, its grand falls, cataracts and rapids, a description of which almost the entire world is acquainted with, attracted the attention of 99 per cent, of all the traveling public, but one per cent, and a small one at that, prepared to take a trip to Humboldt, going by the overland route. By this means it was proposed to have a summer vacation—a pleasure trip – viewing beautiful scenery, etc., all in one, and with the wind up of meeting with friends at home.

In accordance with such desire, full and complete arrangements were made and Thursday morning of last week found us comfortably located on one of Donahue’s cars, bound for Cloverdale, the head center of Sanderson & Co.’s stage line in northern California. In reference to the trip from the city to Cloverdale there is but little to say, as most every one has some knowledge of railroad travel, the familiar sights on the route and the general lay of the Sonoma valley, and there is no need of going over the same ground again. Suffice it to say, the journey was made to Cloverdale without any occurrence worthy of note, save the simple fact that the thermometer stood 102 deg. in the shade and the atmosphere seemingly growing warmer by the minute.

Took dinner, and at 12:30 o’clock were given seats in the Ukiah Stage and fairly on our way. The ride of about 35 miles is through a beautiful country of a mountainous nature, the scenery in some places grand; the road free from dust, and the ride an enjoyable one. In the stage with us were Sisters Josephine and Theresa and Miss Maggie Cummings, for several years connected with the convent in Eureka. They go to Ukiah for the purpose of establishing a school at that point and continuing in the good work which they assume as long as life shall last.

Arrived at Ukiah, remained over night, and Friday morning bright and early, started out in a double carriage, with Doc. Curtis handling the ribbons, bound for Cahto, by this means avoiding the first night ride made by the overland stage, and having an opportunity of viewing all the scenes worthy of inspection. The road to Cahto via Little Lake and Sherwood, is in good condition, and the ride under almost any circumstances is a lovely one, but in this case was particularly delightful, as everything worked to our advantage, the weather being cool and the drive excellent. Speaking of Curtis, for six years he was in the employ of Bullard & Sweasey on the overland road, but now is engaged in the stable and livery business in Ukiah, and fortune seems to smile upon him.

Friday night remained at Bob White’s at Cahto, where we received the best of treatment, and next morning took the stage for Blocksburg. This was the longest and hardest drive to make, but the road running through such a country, such a panorama in the way of scenery which was being constantly presented to one’s vision that the little bumps and warm weather were not noticed, and the time was consumed in surveying the beauties of nature and witnessing the grand scenes that were presented to view. A ride of about 15 miles brings you to Cummings’ place, and from that point the ascent commences over Rattlesnake mountain and up the Big Chemise to Bell’s Springs, near the dividing line between Mendocino and Humboldt counties, where the highest altitude is reached—a height of 3,670 feet above the sea. The stage was stopped and we were allowed a few minutes to gaze upon the grand spectacle seemingly laid out for our particular benefit.

The weather was clear, and to the west could be seen the ocean blue, and ever and anon, the cool sea breeze would fan our cheeks. To the east were the ranges and valleys in Trinity County, while to the south was Sherwood mountain and the Mendocino peaks and ranges; to the north was Humboldt with its rolling and peaked country, green hills and pastures, presenting a strange contrast with the dry country which we had so recently passed over. And seemingly just at our feet was the large range known us Island Mountain, in Trinity, a lofty prominence in reality, but appearing insignificant from our lofty position. Then urging the steeds on, the ride was made to Blocksburg, arriving at 9 o’clock Saturday evening.

Remained with Mr. McLain of the Overland House 24 hours, where we received the kindest of treatment, and on Sunday night made the ride to Strong’s, where breakfast was served, thence to Hydesville and Eureka, arriving at 1 o’clock Monday, probably a little the worse for wear but having enjoyed the trip hugely. To the traveler and business man, and to the ladies especially, it can be said there is no more delightful or pleasant trip to be had in the State than the one overland from Cloverdale to Eureka. It must not be understood from this that all accommodations are equal to those of a Pullman car or in a Palace hotel, but much finer than the average mind conceives and Sanderson & Co. have all details and arrangements down to such a fine point that no mistakes are made and every attention is paid to comfort and convenience.

In no other section of the State other than the Yosemite valley do we believe there is such a grand army of scenery such beautiful views and lovely spectacles as are presented on the overland route, and the day is not far distant when it will be extensively traveled, And the many beautiful features will be known to the outside world. While our thanks are returned to Sanderson &Co. for courtesies extended, it is no more than right or just to say that they are paying particular attention to this route, and hope to make it popular with the traveling public. Their coaches are easy and comfortable, drivers all perfect gentlemen and experts in their particular vocation, the several stations run in the best shape possible, and no money spared to make it a success and popular.

History word of the day—Eclat: Ostentatious display, publicity.

Earlier Odd and Old News:

There are many more, but here are the most recent:

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John Henry
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John Henry
3 years ago

Strong’s Station used to sit right next to Highway 36 East of Fortuna. When the road was destroyed by the 64 flood it was rebuilt and rerouted around Strong’s Station. I hope the building is not falling into disrepair and maybe some day be opened to the public as a museum. It is a little off the beaten path for a museum but it would really be a waste to see the building collapse some day.

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago

1916 Overland Stage through the Redwoods

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago

Overland Mail Stage at Dyerville

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago

Stagecoach crossing South Fork of the Eel River

Bill
Guest
Bill
3 years ago

Thank you for the read David.

Jim Baker
Guest
Jim Baker
3 years ago

John Henry, Strong’s Station was razed in the 1960’s by property owner Louisiana Pacific due to the increasing liability risks of frequent transient occupancy. My father worked for the company and was able to salvage the front door and the slab of 2” X 24” by 9’ rough cut redwood which served as the original bar dating from the 1860’s. I have used it as my office work table since that time, and the computer I am now writing on is sitting on it. I worked on the reconstruction of the two nearby bridges which were destroyed by the ’64 flood. Strong’s Station was situated just west of the present approach fill to one of the bridges, and is now part of the County owned park property, I believe. There was also an old log one-room schoolhouse just across the old road from the hotel, which was also removed. I was able to interview the last caretaker of the hotel, a man by the first name of “Reno” if I am remembering correctly. Louisiana Pacific had allowed him to live there rent free to take care of the structure until he was no longer able to do so, at which time the structure fell into disrepair and occupied intermittently by transients. Reno was familiar with the history of the hotel and surrounding area dating back to the Indian conflicts of the early 1860s, and had some interesting stories to tell. He had found the remains of a rifle and balls, which had apparently been “cached” in a “goosepen” in the vicinity, probably predating the construction of the hotel itself, and dating back to the conflict period. I still possess and treasure a few of the lead balls which he gave me. I would be interested to know your connection with Strong Station, since your memory of it seems to predate it’s destruction in the 1960s.
Many thanks, as usual, to David Heller and Mary Ann Machi, for sharing your valuable knowledge of local history with the rest of us.

Dinky
Guest
Dinky
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Wow, thank you

John Henry
Guest
John Henry
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Jim,
That’s too bad that the building was destroyed. I really had no connection to the building. I used to live in Bridgeville and would take the bus to Fortuna every day to go to Fortuna High and I just always admired that old building. The only thing I really knew about it was that it was a stop for the stages. I was very disappointed when they realigned the road to bypass Strong’s Station.

Loleta bullshit farmer
Guest
Loleta bullshit farmer
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Yhup..the one room school had 4 gun ports on each wall for “Indian attacks”..crazy eh?..back in early 2000s the cal-fire crew practiced there an cleared a few swaths of the site..I found the oldest coin there a 1854 seated dime with a metal detector an lots of other goodie s

Jim Baker
Guest
Jim Baker
3 years ago

Mary Ann, the postcard you posted seems to be addressed to a member of the Cooper family in Carlotta. Do you know if she was related to the original Coopers who established Cooper’s Mill on Yager Creek near Hydesville which was attacked and burned during the Indian conflicts?

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

It is a real treat anytime we get to hear from you Jim. I can only encourage you to add more depth and context to my posts whenever you care to! Here is a Cooper family history that may be of interest to some.

And thank you for the additional photos Mary Ann.

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Jim, I don’t know if Fay Cooper was related. I didn’t find her name in David’s link to the Cooper family. What a history that family had! Anything and everything that could go wrong did but they persevered for many years. I couldn’t help but notice the price of butter back then at $10 a pound and eggs at $6.00 a dozen! Thanks for sharing your knowledge of Strong’s Station. So often important bits get lost over time.

North west
Guest
North west
3 years ago
Reply to  Mary Ann Machi

I’m in an argument now Could you please specify if you’re numbers mint dollars or cents.
Thanks Mary Ann

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago
Reply to  North west

Quoted from link to Cooper family history:

“Chickens worth $5.00 apiece, eggs $6.00 a dozen, ducks at $25.00 per pair, and the pig $100.00.”

“In the summer of 1853, they started the first dairy in the country, which soon grew to sixty cows, and for some time their butter sold for $10.00 per pound.”

Hope that helps.

cutomorrow
Guest
3 years ago

wonderful and thank you.

Jerry D Murry
Guest
3 years ago

For those who are interested, there is an article in the “Summer 2020” edition of the “Humboldt Historian” (Vol 68 Number 2) about a trip from San Francisco to Eureka via automobile in 1909.

J. Murry
Fortuna

For sure
Guest
For sure
3 years ago

I love how the travelers say that it has( next to Yosemite), the most beautiful vistas. Starting at Bell Springs today, and going N, the ride is still over the same mail route& is still stunningly gorgeous…I guess you see a lot of greenhouses now, but the natural beauty can’t be denied.

Angela Robinson
Guest
Angela Robinson
3 years ago
Reply to  For sure

My grandfather’s great grandfather came to Humboldt County in the early(ish) 1850s. He kept a diary and talked about logging on what is now Ryan’s Slough. He had come to California for the gold rush and spent time in the Sierras before he landed in Humboldt.

Later he went back to Indiana or Illinois and told the folks back home and they didn’t believe him. They thought he was telling tall tales about the Redwoods and the Sierras and everything he had seen. In the early 1900s some of his descendants wound up moving to Orange Cove, down south and became citrus growers (the family still has an operation there). They were flabbergasted to see that Dad/Grandpa hadn’t been lying. He did live long enough to visit them out here and had the last laugh.

My grandfather and grandmother moved to Humboldt in the early 60s. Which is how I wound up growing up in Humboldt.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

Now that all of the real historians have had their say, I will add my Bullshistory.

When I was a lad, Cummings was quite a vibrant community. It had a grocery store, a motel, a service station, and quite a few residential buildings scattered around. It was all pretty much ruined when they built the freeway. A few buildings still remain. The motel had a water wheel out in front that was right beside the road. It was a real land-mark for the Highway 101 travelers. As an interesting side story, when John McGrath built the motel addition and the Water Wheel Café in Garberville, he acquired, or copied, the old waterwheel and installed it in front of the motel and named the café “The Water Wheel Café” after it.

Back in the early 1900’s the new route for highway 101 was dug through the South Fork of the Eel River canyon. A relative of mine, Ed Downing, told me stories about when the road was built from Cummings through to Garberville. He worked with my Grandfather Roy Branscomb while building the road. He told me that my Grandfather loved cedar trees and was instrumental in having them planted along the 101. So, if you see cedar trees in the Rattlesnake canyon, you can thank Grandpa.

The Cummings post office opened in 1888, closed in 1899, and re-opened in 1900. I don’t know when it closed again. The town was named after Jonathan Cummings, an early settler, and apparently, stagecoach passenger. Most of the towns were named after the guy that owned the local mercantile store, as most of the early post office were named the same way. If you owned the store that the post office was in, you got to name the town after you. My Great Grandfather Ben Branscomb owned the store in Branscomb, so….

After the road was built it opened up the redwood forest to those “damn newcomers” and there was an actual plot to blow the Benbow dam with a raft of Dynamite to try to get rid of the tourists and bring back the great big fish that used to come Up Ten Mile Creek into Laytonville.

Sorry for always jumping on the back of your great stories David. There were many, many coach companies back then. The Mast Family in Laytonville apparently had a coach. I think they ran the Cahto to Poonkinny route through Covelo. (Bullshitory warning!)

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago

Ernie, We love hearing from you! Having a direct connection to local history is just plain wonderful! Thank you! Mary Ann

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago
Reply to  Mary Ann Machi

Thanks Mary Ann
For a long long time I was hesitant to tell history stories because they were most always a convolution of what really happened. Stories passed down through different families always ended up with their families being the “heroes’. So, after you hear enough stories you pick up an essence of what the truth might have been.

Having listened to many old-timers tell their tales I have ended up with a lot of Bullshistory. I sometimes have to laugh at people that have heard only one historical story and think that it was absolutely the truth. So, I just repeat my twice told tales and let others sort out the truth. David was a lot of fun when he first started learning our history. Then he started getting the stories right. He ended up finding the truth in my old family stories that I had never heard before. He has been a real treasure to me. (Don’t tell him I said that)

Gardener
Guest
Gardener
3 years ago

You should tell them anyway. There are likely details in there that would help other people reconstruct stuff!

Mary Ann Machi
Guest
Mary Ann Machi
3 years ago

Ernie, don’t you think sometimes history is just a point of view? Even if not absolutely correct, if there is such a thing, it’s so much fun to hear stories. Keep ’em coming! m.a.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

You ‘jump on the back’ of my posts anytime Ernie, I seem to recall that you had some commenters who never hesitated to ‘jump on the back’ of your blog entries… no names, ;). I love that about your grandfather and the cedars along the highway–I will be looking for them! Thanks for mentioning the Cummings water wheel ending up at the Garberville Water Wheel restaurant, much like the hand tool carved Indian Chief carving from the old Tan Oak Park ending up at the “Big Chief” restaurant at the s. end of Layonville (somebody correct me if I got the restaurant name wrong).
It is the comments of those who have deeper roots than I in the area that I appreciate the most. Don’t never not stop!… ps. the Cummings Post Office (in its second location) served the area between Laytonville and Piercy until 1949 when Leggett got its own Post Office.

Diane Hawk’s Touring the Old Redwood Highway is a wonderful source book for the history of all those ramshackle buildings along Highway 101 that were once thriving tourist stops.

Jeannie
Guest
Jeannie
3 years ago

John Mcgrath is my grandfather do you have any more information

Stacy Wright
Guest
Stacy Wright
2 years ago

Hi Ernie! We are related. Ada Branscomb was my great-grandmother. I live in Sonoma County but still have lots of family in Willits. I love hearing the history and bullshistory! Thank you!
Stacy Wright

TD
Guest
TD
3 years ago

Love these old stories and photos. Mark Twain in Roughing It described his stagecoach journey from Missouri to Nevada, and it was uncomfortable. Here the author thoroughly enjoys his journey despite blazing hot weather, probably dressed in the heavy clothes of the time, and having to walk up the steeper hills, and perhaps also being precluded from shooting out the windows. You’ve got to admire those old timers. Great stuff.

NorCalNative
Guest
NorCalNative
3 years ago

Did Black Bart ever appear on this route?

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  NorCalNative

Black Bart rock on the Walker Valley grade south of Willits. In Last of the West, the author Frank Asbill told a story of traveling to San Francisco with his parents in 1887 to pick up his mother’s brother Lew Robertson who was incarcerated in San Quentin. The prison warden gave young Frank and his father Pierce a tour of the facilities, reached into a drawer in his office, and gave young Frank two pistols taken from Black Bart. On the drive home they stayed with their friends, the Angles who had a ranch from which you could see Black Bart rock, and boys who were Frank’s age. The Angles owned what is today called the Howard Ranch, home of the famous racehorse “Sea Biscuit”.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago
Reply to  David Heller

David,
When I was a kid my mother would point out Black Bart Rock to us kids on our way to Ukiah. It was just past Ridgewood summit south of Willits. The freeway took it out. However, I swear that she pointed out at least five different rocks. Talk about bullshistory. The only thing that I got out of it, for sure, is that there was a Black Bart Rock on ridgewood summit.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

I had this photo attached, hmmm.

Jim Baker
Guest
Jim Baker
3 years ago

Ernie, I had the same experience as a kid traveling with parents on our annual trip to San Francisco — promises to stop along the way to see Black Bart Rock, but it never seemed to happen. Here are some facts regarding the real “Black Bart rock”, taken from a book by George Hoeper titled Black Bart, Boulevardier Bandit:
On October 2, 1878, the Ukiah-Arcata stage was robbed by a hooded man who was shielded by boulder on the uphill side of the road. This occurred on the ascending grade up to Ridgewood Summit, about 10 miles north of Ukiah and a short distance south of Wool Rock, which can be easily seen to the west of present day Hwy 101 when descending the Ridgewood Summit grade. I researched the Mendocino County Historical Society records about 40 years ago to find more details on this incident and found a typed document and handdrawn map produced by a local “oldtimer” many years before which stated that the boulder “was about the size of automobile” and had since toppled down to the old roadbed”. By happenstance, my brother later worked for CalTrans in that same area as a geologist during the seemingly never-ending attempts by CalTrans to realign and stabilize the grade south of Ridgewood Summit. Part of CalTrans’s pre-construction responsibilities was to locate the boulder because of it’s historical significance and preserve it if possible. He told me that it was found in approximately the location and condition that the Mendo Historical Society document stated, and that fill from the highway construction has since partly or totally covered it but left it in place.
I think that most people assumed the the large rock at the top of Ridgewood Summit was the original ” Black Bart Rock”, but that version of the facts could have been promoted by the motel and restaurant with the same name at that location for promotional purposes. A large photo of Black Bart used to be prominently featured in the lobby of that establishment, if my memory is correct. If you think about why the real location had been chosen by the bandit to hold up the stage, the steep uphill grade would have been more suitable for his purposes because it would have been more difficult for the driver to whip the horses into a rapid getaway on such a grade than it would have been at the top of the summit. It should also be noted that Black Bart almost always made his escape from the holdups on foot, to more easily avoid detection. After this particular one, his footprints were tracked on horseback by the Mendocino County Sheriff in an easterly direction towards Lake County for almost 60 miles. After three days, he lost the tracks about 10 miles west of Willows. Quite a physical feat for a man of Black Bart’s apparent age,

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Wonderful addition Jim… so is the rock in the photo I posted the wrong rock, the one at the top? thanks!
I do have a post coming up about Black Bart. What is funny in the Asbill’s account of getting Black Bart’s guns is his childhood pride in having them… he must mention his having them for about fifteen pages. On one steep portion of the trail back from San Quentin, the wagon team stopped and he got them going again by spontaneously firing off caps, nearly upending surprised passengers from the wagon. Needless to say, he was sternly discouraged from ‘practicing’ shooting his new guns while in the wagon by his parents.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

Thanks Jim and David, I am really looking forward to reading about Black Bart.

Family stories about Black Bart were so much a part of my young history. I’m pretty sure that my Mother actually knew which rock that it was. She also said that it was not the rock at the top of the hill. As Jim said though, that was the rock that the people of Willits adamantly defended as being Black Bart rock. She also said that it was dislodged by the highway construction and that it was lost during the freeway construction.

Nice
Guest
Nice
3 years ago

Nice article.

Jim Baker
Guest
Jim Baker
3 years ago

David, I do not see a photo of a rock attached to your post, but if it was of the prominent rock just east of the highway at the summit across from the motel, that was definitely not the one used by “Black Bart” to hold up the stage, according to documentation by the Mendo County Historical Society, Cal Trans, and Ernie’s mother, whom I trust implicitly in these matters ( not so sure about Ernie, though –only kidding). By the way, the bandit’s trail as the sheriff was tracking him petered out about 10 miles west of Williams, not Willows as I incorrectly quoted from the book I referenced. David, Looking forward to your piece on “Bart” and Frank Asbill the younger from “Last of the West”. Two fascinating real-life characters who apparently had a connection although they never met each other. Please include an unexpurgated version of one of the infamous poems left by “Black Bart, the Po8” at the scene of his crimes, as an insight into his wry humor and possible motives behind his transformation from Civil War veteran to banditry.

Dinky
Guest
Dinky
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

I may be mixed up, but doesn’t it say in Genocide and Vendetta that Black Bart stopped and had dinner at the Asbill place in Island Mountain? Had the younger Asbill not been born yet?

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Dinky

You are correct Dinky, took me awhile to find it… but Charles Bolton, the sheriff, a salesman, and a preacher all dined together at the Asbills when they were at Summit Valley. Fresh from his first Wool Rock stage heist, Charles (Black Bart) questioned the sheriff about whether he had captured the very recent stage robber? Asbill’s account has their dialogue: Bolton: “That bandit is a cagey sort of fellow!” Sheriff: “He sure will be when we get him caged.”

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

I will try again, take# 3 “Black Bart rock”

Jim Baker
Guest
Jim Baker
3 years ago

David, I still do not see the photo on my computer, but will repost the photo you emailed me to see if I can display it. Your photo is not the larger rock at the summit. From the age of the vehicle, I would bet that it is, indeed a photo of the authentic “Black Bart rock”, which I have never seen before it was affected by the the freeway fill. Since the typewritten document and map from the Mendo Historical Society mentions that the rock is “about the size of an automobile”, I wonder if the author of the typewritten manuscript and map is the same person who took this photo.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

Thank you Jim! Don’t know why it wasn’t working for me to post the photo– but thanks for doing so.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Jim Baker

The quest for the historic Black Bart rock continues…. in the Last of the West Asbill wrote: “both holdups in Mendocino County took place at Wool rock, a place just at the top of the Walker Valley grade, a few miles south of the town of Willits. The name, Wool rock, derived from the fact that the freight trains and pack trains camped there for the night or for a noon rest while traveling. There was a big spring not far from the rock.
In the seventies, the stage road ran right along beside the rock on the west side. Bart’s reason for making this holdup there was the fact that when the horses, and after hauling the coach up the five-mile grade, got to the top they were naturally winded. It was a good time to spring his holdup. there was good level stretch there too where that driver might figure he’d get shot if he tried to outwit a bandit.
There is a rock on the Walk Valley Grade where a sign has been placed by the historical faction of the nation. This small rock by the side of the highway is about five feet high and sits just at the left-hand side of the highway. But not so much in the seventies and eighties, for the road then went in a different place. It went down the side of the mountain quite a distance and is now filled in with erosion. No. The historical rock with the big letters to show the millions of tourists where the noted bandit held up the stage is much like a lot of history; mistaken in its facts.” Wool Rock. Sounds like Caltrans didn’t have a copy of Last of the West to source from Jim.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  David Heller

Jim Baker sent me a very articulate email confirming Asbill’s description of the stage route being further down the hillside. The original PLAT survey map for the area shows the stage stop in Walker Valley, and a 1937 Highways map of Mendocino county also show this original path of the road at a lower elevation. Those rocks shown higher up that are identified as Black Bart’s rock are mythical.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

Open Image here: comment image?w=879

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

Sheeese.. Amatures!

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

Sheeese whiz! I guess it takes a professional former blogger… hmmm…
“What Does Amature Mean? This slang term is used to describe someone who is not mature. It is a common replacement in text and online chatting today for the term immature. It is often considered a misspelling of the word “amateur” but this term has a different meaning.” Seeing how young I am, I am not the least bit offended, but I don’t know how Jim will take it.. 🙂 (don’t worry folks us good ol’ boy historians are pals)

THANKS ERNIE!

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

The “e” sticks on my keyboard. Then pops up latre. (B.S. Warning)

David Heller
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David Heller
3 years ago

Of course. And who am I to tease/correct anyone? I have been told online to go soak my grammarian crackers in milk.
Thanks again for getting that picture up for us, Ernie!

Gary Smith
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Gary Smith
3 years ago

My great Aunts (Nowlin ‘s) used to travel from Branscomb or Laytonville to Willits on the stagecoach. My grandmother Isabelle Nowlin said they would go work in San Francisco every so often. My cousin Leslee Luna said the same thing and pointed out a big rock where they stopped for lunch. I don’t know if they took it all the way or if there was a train at the time. I don’t think my grandmother ever did. I miss all those people.