Odd, Old News: As We Close in on the Anniversary of the 1964 Flood, We Look Further Back to the Flood of 1879

Centerville, Calif, Where A Flood Ends [Crop of 1964 Peter Palmquist photo courtesy of HSU Library, Humboldt Room Special Collections, Palmquist/Yale Collection]

Say the word flood to longtime Humboldt county residents and memories of the apocalyptic 1955 and 1964 floods easily provoke dramatic first-hand accounts from those who lived through it. A few may know of the Noachic 1861-2 flood that was even larger, but there have also been a number of lesser floods. Mrs. Eugene Fountain, our favorite Humboldt county historian, compiled some news articles about one freshet and flood that may not have been the worst in history, but still wreaked havoc along rivers and on the coastal floodplain.

Drought-like conditions had prevailed until the rain started in late February of 1879. The rains began with four inches over three days that saturated the ground, followed by days of downpour greater than earlier winter storms. Rivers rose and flooded their banks.

A Humboldt Times editor noted that the public had complained both when there was no rain and when there was too much. He minimalized the flood damage and suffering on the river bottoms: “Suppose a few cattle did drop as they stood, and a few farm houses were inundated”… and focused on the benefit to unemployed loggers “stranded” in saloons, and downed logs stranded upstream by low waters.

“A sufficient quantity of the pluvial dispensation had been received to satisfy all wants in an agricultural point of view, and farmers were satisfied. But the principal industry of Humboldt county being her lumber interests, and manufacture, the attention of her people pointed in that direction, and all were anxiously waiting and wishing for a sufficient rain to raise the streams and drive the much coveted logs down to tide water…. Soon it was that the welcome cry was heard, the streams are full, and logs are running lively”. (Humboldt Times, 3/14/1879)

The victims of the flooding were likely less appreciative of the rain’s economic benefit to the county’s timber industry. Initial reports estimated the number of feet of logs brought downstream by the freshet at 40 million, a number that grew. The rivers were “running bank full” and previously idle loggers had all they could attend to. The water in Elk River was raised enough to allow logs to come down from both forks: “There is now a solid line of logs in Elk River from the bridge up the stream a distance of nearly eight miles, containing in the neighborhood of nearly fifty million feet”. (Humboldt Times, 3/9/1879)

The freshet and flood of early 1879, while not the largest in county history, nevertheless provoked an interesting discussion of planting willows and alders to minimize future flood damage, an idea that was seconded in a 1936 article written by horticultural giant Albert Etter of Ettersburg. How to get the Eel River to cooperate and go where humans want it to has been discussed for a long time.

Now for a look at the effects of high waters and flooding in the storm of 1879…

Crop of 1911 Denny map

FLOOD OF ‘79
Early Days of Humboldt.
Mrs. Eugene F. Fountain. Historian

Warning from the Winter of 1879. Patty Prim was the pen name assumed by one of the correspondents from Ferndale, who sent material to the West Coast Signal in the latter seventies. I should like to know who she was, but do not expect to discover the secret. She lived on the Island and had a light, gay touch as the reader may see for himself. Her account of the storms in 1879 show how dangerous Eel River became during the freshets, even in those early days when there were fewer residents along its banks.

March 5, 1879. Editor Signal: How the days and weeks fly by, and yet can there be weather more dismal? Wait a moment I will except Saturday and yesterday, but then they were naught but an aggravation. Isn’t it queer how the weather department regulates our climate? Weeks upon weeks of sunny days, and then ditto of rainy ones, while we poor mortals, wise in our own conceit, think we can arrange things better, to please ourselves at least. Faces generally are long, long and blue, caused possibly by the blue weather.

March 12, 1879. The Flood in Eel and Salt Rivers. I take for my text this evening a verse which is partly found in Genesis: “And it came to pass that in the eighteen hundred and seventy-ninth year, in the third month, and the fourth day of the month, that the fountains of the great deep were broken up, and the windows of heaven were opened.” And that it was so, literally, no one can realize but those who were where they could witness it, and the scenes of devastation after the receding of the waters. As to the destruction caused we have yet no reliable report.

I have reason to thank my stars that I was domiciled on one of the highest points of the Island, but still was where I could see, only when trees intervened, one unbroken expanse of water. It was a grand sight, and but for the anxiety felt for those less fortunately situated, would have been enjoyed as a scene only witnessed occasionally in a lifetime. Huge monarchs of the woods, that had stood as sentinels along the banks of these streams for hundreds of years were born along by the mighty, restless current, with a rapidity that gave the looker-on a fair idea of the force of the torrent. I did not see Eel River at its extreme height, much to my regret. The wildest rumors are current as to the probable loss of life, of homes and their inmates being swept away, but nothing definite is known. I can imagine that they may be true, knowing how many families there were between here and Camp Grant, living in low, insecure places, and if the flood came upon them suddenly and in the night as it did with us, undoubtedly many have been called to their long home.

With us on the Island, so far as I have been able to ascertain, the damage has been serious. Neighbor Goble rose from his bed on Thursday and found nearly the whole of his premises inundated, water in his house and in his barn. Horses, cows and hogs paddling around and fowls awakened to a sense of the fact that they couldn’t swim. He very facetiously remarked that, not satisfied with filling his well even full, the water was piled three feet above the surface. He removed his family to Mr. Broderick’s, as did also George Gray. Mr. Goble had over a hundred bushels of grain wet, and lost a large number of chickens. Mr. Denman found at Mr. Hick’s, although the place of the latter was also surrounded with water. Messrs. Spencer and Kistner, with their families, came to Mr. Boynton’s. Mr. Spencer lost some forty hogs, and G. A. Dungan also lost quite a number. Of all those on the lower part of this and Cock Robin Islands, we have no tidings, only that they were on board the streamer Whitelaw. It is feared that the loss of property is heavy, if indeed no lives were lost.
Mill town on Eel River was inundated. Houses gone and people homeless. Mr. James Munroe saved his wife by placing her on the counter of the saloon, but finally almost lost both their lives after assistance reached them, in trying to pull a boat along as far as Mr. Dickson’s. The young German, who was connected with the bridge suit of last winter, found himself, house and all, floating away toward the sea. He seized a pair of blankets and some bacon, climbed out through the chimney, and succeeded in making a landing. Tappendorff lost a wagon, three plows and about ten hens. His barn turned around and now stands in the county road. The cannery and wharf are supposed to be safe, but the wharf at Port Kenyon is said to be somewhat damaged. On the northern end of the Island, Mr. Barber removed his family just in time in the night, as the house toppled over soon after, and his barn was his new habitation. Mr. Fulmore’s house also followed the example of others, but not until the family were out of it.

Out-buildings, cattle, hogs, sheep and chickens in plenty came down Salt River. Miraculously one or two got out alive. Jesse Wynn, whose house is near the river bank, was found yesterday afternoon in a tree and rescued more dead than alive. I believe he is said to be fairly recovered this evening. Mr. Dungan’s wharf is annihilated and his warehouse moved some 300 feet down and back from the river. N. Head Prairie is in a deluged condition. News comes down the river that Supervisor Dinsmore has met with losses in stock and J. C. Greenlaw’s barn is gone. Possibly you have heard all this before.

Other Reports on the Storm A Real Disaster. This community hears with regret the announcement of the destruction of Vance’s railroad bridge across Mad River, by the unusual flood which swept down that stream yesterday afternoon and last night Tuesday, March 11, 1879. It is said by those capable of expressing a correct opinion that it was the greatest rise known in that stream since the winter of 1861-’62. The loss is a very severe one to that energetic citizen, John Vance, and will be seriously felt by the residents of the Mad River section. The torrent gradually crept up to the face of the bridge, and lifted it from position, and one or more mammoth redwood trees striking it in its weakened condition, soon made the destruction complete. After the destruction of the bridge, the timber, and drift so blocked the mouth of the Canal that Mad River had to and did find outlet through a new channel on the north side of the stream, which was enlarging rapidly. Some $5OO worth of stave bolts belonging to W. H. Johnston of Eureka were swept from the bank of the Canal. Parties going up the bay noticed that a warehouse probably Landsdale’s had fallen in, leaving just the roof visible above the water. The track at Vance’s warehouse was washed away, and where the track had been, a rushing torrent was moving toward the bay. The men at the wharf were surrounded by water on all sides, but seemed to be enjoying themselves, having caught a pig that had been swimming about for some twelve hours, and were preparing him for a feast. Cattle could be seen around the marsh, many knee or even breast deep in the water. It is estimated that 2,500 logs passed the Boom into the bay.

Patrick Carrol, who had been at work driving logs at the Mad River Boom, started to his house to get supper, as he was exhausted from the long day’s work. The water caught him on the way up, and he endeavor ed to get to shore, but was not able to do so, and remained in the water nearly up to his neck until the next afternoon, probably fifteen hours before he was rescued. Medical attendance was procured and there are strong hopes of his recovery. The scene at the mouth of Mad River and in the lagoon yesterday at high tide was one of complete desolation. The cause of the Vance bridge being carried away was the formation of gravel beds in the river, resulting in a change in the bed of the river causing the banks of the river to wash away and undermine the peers of the bridge, thus letting the structure down. Arcata Bottom was flooded to such an extent that boats came from Mad River to the Bay over the fields without the slightest inconvenience.

More About the Flood South of Eureka. The residents in the county around Bridgeville had depended upon Robinson’s ferry to cross the Van Duzen river at that point until the bridge was erected at that place in 1875. The bridge was destroyed in this flood and little Johnny Hale was drowned. In the West Coast Signal of March 26, 1879 the bereaved father’s letter concerning the tragedy was printed. The letter bore the date of March 21.

“Editor Signal: I have seen several items in your paper in relation to the loss of the bridge which formerly spanned the Van Duzen River at this place. Of course the mighty waters were responsible for its destruction. I was watching the bridge most of the day on which it went off and noticed that the water was being forced through the cracks between the planks from the south side of the river, and some three or four feet higher than the water was on the northside of the bent. It is my opinion that the pressure of the water striking the rocks on the south bank, and the force with which it reacted and struck the staunch, planked up bent, broke off the two tenons where they entered the mud-sill, and carried the bottom of the bent toward the north bank, letting the bridge down almost at the same moment. As soon as I felt the bridge moving, I climbed(sic?) back for my two children. The center of the bridge was entirely under water, and the ends were drawing at the banks. We escaped by a miracle except my youngest son. He must have dropped through the parted flooring, as we all thought of and looked for him, but he was not seen until his body was found twelve miles below. My next youngest son was taken from a rock in the river, partly covered with water and some of the bridge timbers, to which he clung until nearly exhausted. He has almost recovered from his injuries. A. Coleman dropped through the bridge some distance from the bank, and caught hold of timbers which swung him around to the bank, when he was rescued with the aid of a rope. J. H. Thompson made his escape by jumping from drift to drift until he reached shore. I jumped and caught a stump above the water and clung to it until all the timbers had passed over my head. The men named were walking to loosen the accumulation of drift which had lodged against the bridge when they were hurled from it”. Travelers once more had difficulty crossing the river, as this item from the same issue shows. “Frank Armstrong and Craig Thompson had a narrow escape from drowning in the Van Duzen at Bridgeville a few days ago. They attempted to cross the river on a raft, but the current being much stronger than they anticipated, it was carried over the rapids. They, being excellent swimmers, reached shore after a terrible struggle”.

Storm New From the Grizzly Bluff Section. It commenced raining last Saturday night and has not stopped yet. Many accidents have occurred, some of them fatal and others nearly so. Hanley was bucked from his horse and thrown into Howe Creek, near its mouth. He came near being carried out into the current of Eel River, but the last clump of bushes on the bank of the stream proved to be his life preserver. A frame which had every appearance of being the porch of Jesse Greenlaw’s Pepperwood Bottom House floated down the river. The school house in that vicinity also went down stream, and it is likely that a great amount of treasured knowledge in the shape of text books went with it. A large, white painted dwelling went by at a reckless speed. A floating chicken house, covered with chickens, went dancing down Eel River. A rooster in the party stretched his neck and gave a regular daylight salute as he was carried sea ward. Between Mr. Patrick’s house and Mr. Worthington’s the water was from two to four feet deep. Mr. Patrick lost considerable stock. Mr. Johnston states that the water stood from eight to ten feet deep over his farm. Mr. McDonald, the ferryman, lost his: stables, and much hay and grain carried away.

His dwelling was flooded. Old Mr. Bagley and his people were taken from the second story window of their residence. They lost all their stock. Fencing on low lands has been swept away, and large fields have been robbed of their soil. We learn from Mr. Barlow, who is just down from the Myers farm, on South Fork of Eel River, that the flood did considerable mischief in that section. Donelson’s blacksmith shop above Gearhart’s was carried away bodily by the flood and his family was obliged to take refuge from it in the timber for a day or two. Three thousand fence rails were lost at the Myer’s farm, but no damage to the land. At Camp Grant the places of Judge Hurlbutt and Amos Hansel were considerably injured by loss of land. During the flood in Eel River, the house of Mr. Lawrence, at the mouth of the South Fork, was swept away. At Greenlow’s place, the water rose until the family were obliged to take refuge on the counter in the office. They were rescued in a boat. The barn which landed on Barnett’s farm, Sandy Prairie, is reported to belong to a German known as “Chris”, who lives above Shiveley’s.

Editorial on the Flood in the West Coast Signal

March 12, 1879
“It is needless to remind our readers that the flood which has recently prevailed in the valleys of Humboldt County has been attended with much loss and suffering, physical and pecuniary. We believe we hazard nothing, in saying that the actual damage has been but in a small degree proportioned to what seemed to be the actual peril, and that when a survey of the whole field which has been inundated comes to be made, it will be found that many of the disasters which have occurred could have been foreseen, guarded against and prevented. The same foresight manifested by Mr. Jereh Quill, of N. Prairie, will have to be looked upon as indispensible, perhaps on very much of the best farming land of Humboldt County. It is idle to suppose that such lands as have been overflowed are going to be abandoned to the fox and hare. It may be that the residences of our most prosperous farmers would look, if constructed as is Mr. Quill’s house, as if the ground floor was in the upper story, but better a tenement than a semi-occasional freshet will respect even if it is set up on stilts, than one which, because there happens to be a few heavy showers, will imagine itself a new-fashioned Noah’s Ark, and start out to sea, via the mouth of Eel River, without being provisioned for the voyage. Another idea strikes us as in connection with these occasionally submerged bottom lands. In a number of instances the soil, especially where: the land has been recently ploughed, has been washed away to a depth of several inches. This we are informed is especially noticeable, and has been especially destructive where the land is subjected to a long sweep of rapid current, by reason of length of clearing.

Our idea is this. Plant living hedges of willows, say three to four rows in each hedge, in such number as to form an open coffer-dam of each ten or twenty, or even forty acres of field. The waters would have no difficulty in either entering or departing. It stands to reason that the force of the current would be considerably broken by these living and at the same time yielding obstacles. The only possible objection which this plan suggests to our mind is the possibility that if the current was sluggish, the precipitations of sediment might work as much harm as the swifter current works by carrying off the upper soil. But the idea is worthy of a test. The recent flood will make herself the teacher of many important lessons to our people. We take it that hereafter fewer homes will be built m exposed situations. This matter is hinted at in our reference to Mr. Quill’s home.

The storm has dealt far more severely with other portions of our State. It has laid an embargo on travel in Napa County, and driven several hundred people from their homes in the suburbs of that city, forcing them to take refuge in the Court House and Catholic Church, which were turned into free lodging houses for the occasion. It blockaded travel on the North Pacific road, and on the Vallejo and Sacramento road, flooded as usual the beautiful and flourishing town of Pacheco, in Contra Costa County, and otherwise made itself as disagreeable as possible in many and remotely settled portions of the State. After all, we are no worse off, perhaps not near so badly off, as many of our neighbors. The late storm has its compensations in the lessons of prudence which teaches us —in the warnings which it gives. It will not do to sit down and repine over our losses. Six months hence the flood of 1879 will be remembered chiefly as a moist time. The record shows that repetitions of the calamity are to be looked for only at comparative long intervals, and it is probable that the next one will find our valley friends practically Hollanders in their preparations for and ability to resist the onslaught of the rushing waters”.

Optimistic words above, in reference to the long intervals between damaging floods. In the story of pioneer William Green which appeared two years ago, I mentioned the storm of January 1881, during which Mr. Green’s skill as a boatman was valuable in evacuating settlers on Arcata Bottom. Over nine inches of rain fell in three days. Sheriff Brown reported that the Klamath River raised eighty-two feet during the storm. The Indians at the mouth of that stream could congratulate themselves on having their town of Requa located high above the river bed. Sixty-feet of the trestle work on the north side of Vance’s railroad bridge over Mad River was washed away. Fred Burg’s farm, at the location which was later Korbel, was almost all washed away, but the dwelling was spared. Steve Puter rescued the families of James McDermott and Mrs. Stebbins east of Blue Lake.

These two storms seem to add proof that the severity of the weather is at its greatest in the period closing each decade, and opening the following ten year interval. The storm of 1861 -’62 was also a further proof. It was probably the worst of any ever visiting California within the memory of man.

The advice which was offered humbly by the editorial writer, who was no doubt David Gordon himself and a dweller in towns, was repeated over a half century later by the founder of the Ettersburg Experiment Station, a naturalist who knew whereof he spoke. In an article in the Humboldt Times on April 13, 1938, Albert Etter stated:

“As to what can be done about the flood problem in Eel River valley, the bars along the liver should be purchased and held as state property and planted to willows, alder, etc., to cause the bars to be built up by sand and gravel and thus retard the overflow and increase the volume of water in the channel. The increase in volume would create that additional current necessary to float the debris on down the river and out to sea. Any pocket where brush and small trees deaden the current causes the sediment to settle and build up. Much could be done to good advantage by systematic planting to cause the sediment to settle and build up the land, where under present conditions of open road, the current is too great and only sand and gravel are deposited when fine silt could be had.

Whether other native species of willow are best or some other exotic species, at any rate willows have been a great factor in shaping stream courses. It is true that since the white man came to Humboldt, they have witnessed some real freshets in the valley. However, before there must have been bigger ones. Outstanding of all freshets was Perry Slough near its entrance into Salt River. A waterline of mud on that tree was left eighteen feet from the tree’s base. The mark was still visible when the felled a number of years ago.”

Earlier Odd and Old News:

There are many, but here are the most recent:

• The Sad Saga of Big Diamond, Humboldt County’s First Elephant Fatality
• Dog Tales…
• Early Plans for an East West Railroad to Humboldt County
• Northern California in the Seventies
• The Pioneer Philanthropist
• The Horrible History of Round Valley, Part One
• The Horrible History of Round Valley (Part 2)
• A Time When Humboldt County Was Known For Its Spuds, Not Buds
• The ‘Million Dollar Mill that Never Milled’
• Old Clubfoot And Reelfoot—Grizzly Marauders of Northern California
• Pioneer Oldtimer on Newcomers