Odd, Old News: No Such Thing As Impassable Roads For Fool-Proof Modern Motor Cars

Bucking Snow On Bell Springs Mountain.
Nuggets of old news are served up by David Heller, one of our local historians.
Last week’s Odd Old News comment section about early roads into Humboldt County stimulated this week’s article that captures the early journey of a truck traveling north to Eureka from San Francisco in 1916.
“Horseless carriages” had arrived in Eureka by boat around the turn of the 20th century, in the summer of 1903, H.L. Ricks’ automobile was the first to be driven up the old stage route. Because of the novelty of the automobile engine, a number of early vehicles were referred to as kinds of automobiles, there were “automobile airships” and “automobile boats”. Trucks were still in early stages of development as “commercial automobiles”. In 1914 GMC came out with its first light delivery truck, built by the Buick Motor Company on the original Model F Buick touring car chassis. The bed of the truck was 4 feet, 10 inches long, 3 feet wide, and 7 inches deep. Fitted with 30 X 4 inch pneumatic tires, the body was low, standing 39 inches above the ground for ease of loading and unloading. From a cursory study, it appears that people could order the basic Buick chassis with a base price of $1,090 and add a cab with windshield and/or the “express cargo body” as extras. The Buick one-ton shown was this early model without the extras.
As one Southern Humboldt old-timer–excuse me, venerable elder, is fond of saying, we have two seasons here… mud and dust. Muddy winter road conditions inhibited almost all auto traffic, and April marked the beginning of “automobile season”. The Buick truck was apparently the second truck to come up the stage route from the south, but was the first to come north in the deep mud, and snow season, a truer test of the truck’s capabilities. The article shows that by 1916, the yet to be named Redwood Highway was built to Longvale from the south, in the next few years it would be built up Rattlesnake Creek to Garberville. The dreaded Rattlesnake grade incline, where the wagon road went uphill from old Cummings station that had been the bane of early auto journeys, apparently didn’t faze the truck as it made its way to the Mail Ridge/Bell Springs wagon road.
The success of this Buick truck in making it through to Eureka in the winter of 1916 did not change the habits of most automobile owners who continued to travel in the “automobile season” to avoid the “mud season”.
Early Routes out of Humboldt —

Map By Lillie E. Hamm, Public Domain, With Modifications By Miles Eggleston/North Coast Journal
A crop of a late 1890’s map of Humboldt County’s different stage routes as dotted lines, and the original 1877 “Overland Route” wagon road south in red. The green line is the more direct 1893 “Mail Ridge Route” (now Dyerville Loop Road) from the confluence of the main and south forks of the Eel (Dyerville) to New Harris. The 1918 Redwood Highway, and later U.S. Highway 101 route, follows the South Fork of the Eel River. (Thanks to Ernie B. for finding this map.)
NO SUCH THING AS IMPASSABLE ROADS FOR FOOL-PROOF MODERN MOTOR CARS
Humboldt Times
March 19, 1916Some of the recent performances of gasoline propelled vehicles would tend to prove that there was no such thing as an impassable road. All the San Francisco block books show the now famous Duncan street hill to be impassable to teams, yet after enough practice and experimenting almost all of the best known cars succeeded in getting over the top of this 50 per cent grade, but the performance of these cars is eclipsed by the record breaking trip of the Buick one-ton truck last week which succeeded in making the run from San Francisco to Eureka at a time when all authorities agreed that the roads were difficult.
One day was consumed in preparing for the mud plug and three days were required for the 300 mile trip, and according to the crew’s report the car showed no bad effects from its unusual experience, upon its arrival in Eureka last Monday morning at 11 o’clock.
The truck was in charge of Perry Graves and C. A. McGee, both of the Howard Auto Co., Pacific Coast distributors of Buick cars. This is not Grave’s first record-breaking trip between San Francisco and Eureka. Last spring he had the honor of taking the first automobile (a Buick one-ton truck) into Eureka from San Francisco; but that trip was almost a month later and only makes the trip this year seem the more remarkable. In discussing road conditions and the trip in general, McGee has the following to say: “When we left San Francisco we knew there were many difficulties ahead of us. Everyone familiar with road conditions assured us that the trip was absolutely impossible at this time, and if it had not been for our absolute faith in the Buick I am sure we would have backed out.
The first night’s stop was at Cloverdale and at 7:30 Saturday morning we were on our way to Willits over the new state Highway which is certainly a great improvement over the old ‘Blue Slide’ road. Several miles of rough road were found near Hopland and then highway the rest of the way to Willits. This was the end of good roads for many miles, and according to the natives our journey was soon to come to an end on account of impassable roads. We decided to go to Laytonville via Sherwood Instead of taking the new road via Longvale. There had been no travel over this road for several months, and it was certainly in bad shape. The Buick never faltered, however, and it took the grades and mud with the utmost ease.
Cummings, at the foot of Rattlesnake grade was the second night’s stop. Sun up Sunday morning found us on our way up the grade, and there is no questioning the fact that it is a real grade, and to add to the difficulties our Buick had to overcome, we encountered snow five miles from Bell Springs and the next ten miles was through mud and snow, in some places a couple of feet deep. We reached the summit about 10 o’clock and then began the descent to Harris and Alderpoint where the Eel River is crossed. Some very deep mud was found on this piece of road. From AIderpoint to Blocksburg the roads were in better shape, but lots of mud was encountered between Blocksburg and Bridgeville where the third night’s stop was made.
At Bridgeville we were told that the washed out section of the road along the Van Dusen River had been repaired and that we only had 13 more miles of bad road ahead of us. So we started on the last lap of our journey Monday morning in a very happy frame of mind.The scenery was grand but the roads were not. There is an end to all things, however, even bad roads, and at Strong’s Station we came to a gravel road which was as good as anyone could ask for and the thirty miles into Eureka was made in fast time.
Humboldt and Sonoma counties are both working hard on their roads, and they will be in good shape this summer. Mendocino County, however, does not appear to consider good roads necessary, and for that reason motorists will not enjoy their trip through this county until the state highway is completed. Judging from what we saw of the roads it will be at least sixty days before the roads will be open to pleasure touring.
In spite of the unfavorable road conditions, the Buick truck made the 300 mile trip without the least bit of trouble of any kind, and averaged better than 12 miles to the gallon of gasoline.”
Earlier Odd and Old News:
There are many, but here are the most recent:
- The Bicycle Bandit of Humboldt County
- The Hansell Ranch Orchard at Camp Grant
- Mountain Children
- More Caves of Mystery
- Sam’s Story of Snaking, Snakers, and Snakeries
- An 1884 Look at Dogholes, Lumber Loading Chutes, and the Rockport Suspension Bridge
- The Early History of the Save the Redwoods Movement
- Mammoth Beets And The Sugar Beet Industry That Never Took Root In Humboldt County
- When Empress the Elephant Came to Humboldt County
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My Favorite Feature, “Odd Old News”!
Grow-Dozer 1916! Three days from SF to Eureeka…
Jack it up, Fly N High! BigFat tires…
We are reliably informed that lift kits, giant tires, and flashy mods are all passe!
Buy a stock rig today, keep it absolutely factory stock, and maintain a low profile! You read it here first!
There’s a website archive of old photos at https://www.shorpy.com . Pictures of cities there from 1903 show almost no cars but by 1907 there’s hardly a horse to be seen. It’s almost all cars. Such a dramatic change in technology in such a short time. Makes the internet spread look almost glacially slow.
It’s really amazing that people were driving cars to Humboldt so early. Such adventurers as cars were prone to failures and services were far appart.
Nice addition Guest, thanks. By 1903, there were “nearly a score” of automobiles in Eureka, and they wreaked havoc on local roads! The amount of runaways and people getting spilled out of buggies and wagons was alarming. The adjustment period of having cars and horse drawn conveyances on the same roads took quite a while, and led to ordinances requiring autos to slow to 5mph when they spotted a horse on the road.
The link at the end of the article preface is for the 1908 Harper Motor’s founder Harvey Harper’s epic winter ride north to Eureka with his whole family in a car…in order to get that first Ford dealership in the area… a story in itself!
1915 “Locomobile” at Shelter Cove Wharf. I can’t find the article at the moment David but there’s a story about the first motor vehicle shipped to the Cove on a steamer destined for Briceland or thereabouts. I think to be used at the tan bark plant. It couldn’t make it up the steep grades so it was towed by a team of horses/mules. When it arrived, no one knew how to mechanic on it so it was sent back. Something about some joyriding going on too. Them musta been the days!!!
Nice! Those four hooved “tow trucks” had a lot of business in the day… the Harper’s were savvy enough to hire George Pinches of Laytonville and his team to get up the Rattlesnake grade.
Mary Ann, i hope you see this. If you do find out any more about this photo, please let us know, or email [email protected] . Bob Stansberry and i were trying to figure out what that so-called “Locomobile” was up to. We somehow had a copy of that same picture, with the same handwriting on it. But never heard that it was a particular, one-time occurrence with the Briceland story around it.
Thank you!
I don’t know if the one pictured was from this shipment, but I found when the Locomobiles first arrived up north by steamer in late 1912:
“The first 1913 “Big Six” locomobile to arrive in Humboldt county came on Saturday’s City of Topeka. The car came consigned to the Eureka Garage, agents for the locomobile, and has already been sold to Fred S. Bair of Maple Creek. The car is six-cylinder, 48-horsepower and is built for five passengers.” I would imagine that they shipped it in.” Blue Lake Advocate, 11/0/9/1912
Buick and man working together to tame the wilderness
These “Odd and Old” articles are the best! I especially like the reprints of newspaper articles from yesteryear.
Well, if back then they had fool-proof cars, I guess we have proof that, as the saying goes, we now have better fools…
Some of the history stories we’ve read lately pointed out the difficulty of getting a motor vehicle up and down all the ridges, but the old timers knew what they were doing when they built them there.
It is a whole lot easier to pull a vehicle up a hill with a horse than it is the shovel through a slide, saw away a windfall tree, or ford a raging creek. Ridgetops have stable rocky ground. Large rivers are easier to cross on a ferry than a creek is to cross in the winter. If you had to build and maintain a road, you would soon figure out why the old roads followed the ridge tops and avoided slides and creeks.
My grandfather, Roy Branscomb, helped build the new Highway 101 down the Rattlesnake canyon back in the 1920’s. They knew the futility of building a road in such terrible terrain, it was still being talked about when I was a child. My father was an equipment operator. He logged in the summer and worked for his uncle Ed Downing with California Division of Highways in the winter. Removing slides and replacing culverts kept him busy all winter. I remember the conversations about how great it was to build a highway down a unstable canyon and providing out of work loggers with something to do in the winter.
Mr. Howard, who owned the Buick dealership in San Francisco sold the truck that came over Bell Springs ridge. Mr. Howard also joined with Doctor Babcock to build The Howard Memorial Hospital in Willits. In winter of 1923 Doctor Babcock drove from Willits to Laytonville to deliver my mother as a baby. I assume that he came through Sherwood Valley, down The Strong Mountain Road into Laytonville, because the Longvale Canyon was not passable.
As a side note, I was also delivered by Dr. Babcock, as was my sister, both in the Howard Memorial Hospital.
I just condensed a couple of hypothetical books into the above comments. I am so glad that David Heller chose to do these history stories. Our history is so important to humanity.
I find it somewhat uncomfortable to see so much of history being destroyed and removed. How will our young people ever learn about the things that we have done wrong if keep erasing our history. It would be nice to get back to raising our children and feeding their hungry young minds with the truth instead of destroying what we don’t want them to know.
Ever consider writing those hypothetical history books?
It sure would be nice to feed children’s minds truth. We can start by getting rid of any mention of religion as anything other than a curiosity.
Yes, I have considered writing a book. I started a blog years ago to “hone my writing skills”. I soon discovered the most of what I knew were simply old family legends that had very little truth in them. (Thanks to true historians, like David Heller for filling me in with the truth.) There are many other local historians the are very accurate. I won’t try to name them here because I love them all dearly and I wouldn’t want to leave anyone out…
There are many of the old family stories that I know that are each different depending on the family that tells them. After I have heard them all, and knowing that the old timers had a penchant for telling tall tales, hyperbole, exaggerations… and damn lies. I can come to a pretty good idea of what the truth really was. I have an advantage over many of the readers here, in that I had the opportunity to know some of these old bullshitters. (I say that respectfully because I loved hearing their stories more than most things that I have ever done.)
You mentioned Religion. As you have probably guessed, I think of religion as part of our indispensable part of history. It can, and should no more be erased than the rest of our history, and like it or not it has formed humanity into who we are today.
You might be surprised to know that I am actually mentioned in the Bible. I am know as “Ye”, Like in, “Oh Ye of little faith”. I have respect for, and the greatest regard for my religious friends… I just can’t cast myself across that chasm of the reality of who I am to who religion thinks I should be. I only believe in the things that I can hit with a hammer. (they gotta be real)
By that logic, I’m a very strong believer in thumbs!
A book of family tall tales, followed by explanations of what likely actually happened, would be a great read.
Ernie, excuse me, Mr. Branscomb…
You are fantastic writer yourself. I have enjoyed your writing for several years, from your blog to here.
Just be sure to include maps!
Ditto! He has a warm writer’s tone that I have been envious of for a long time. His Ernie’s Place Blog was the best local blog entertainment going for some years.
Always like to see what you have to add Ernie…. two well known Laytonvillians, Andy Bowman and Fox Burns were involved in scouting out the route… The Convict Act of 1915 allowed low risk convicts to be used as laborers and several convict camps were established in Leggett Valley, and one in Piercy, off the top of my head. Here’s an article from 1915:
CONVICTS ON STATE HIGHWAYS –California’s Experiment Demonstrated a Success ——- AND ARE CONTENTED Not a single Breach of Faith On the Part of the Men— Discipline Enforced Sports Allowed
Something unique in the annals of California history is the convict road construction gang now employed in Mendocino county. Ninety San Quentin prisoners, according to the Humboldt Times, have “made good.” To reach the camp the men wore sent in squads by train to Fort Bragg. Thence they travel by auto truck about 70 miles to the camp. The camps are in Leggett valley. The work is hard, but the prisoners are eager to be sent. It not only gives them near liberty and an open air life, but it shortens their terms in prison. Every day a convict works on tho road deducts half a day from his sentence in addition to tho reduction made for ordinary good conduct marks. Tho prisoners, except for meal time, are worked every minute of daylight. The highway is being constructed through a thickly wooded country, and the work is of a character that only a physically fit man can stand. But only one has had to be returned to prison on account of disability. There is recreation as well as work. The prisoners are permitted to swim and to play games after work hours. The camps are in fact much like those of school cadet corps. Tho discipline is a little stricter. F. G. Somner, chief engineer of the, Willits division of the state highway, where the camps are located, says: “The men are doing far better work than many supposed they could or would do. They are clearing thw right-of way through a heavily-wooded country and it is difficult and necessarily slow work.” In discussing the camps Warden Johnston of San Quentin declares: “At first many of us were skeptical regarding the venture, but the two months that have passed seem to indicate that all is going to bo well. So far there has not been tho slightest trouble. I think that for peace and quiet, considering the number of men employed, our Mendocino colonies break the construction camp records in this state. I sincerely hope that this employment for prisoners will continue to be successful, for it means a great deal to the state, as well as to the men.” “4 December 1915
The state highway act of 1910 made a lot of funds available and a number of road building and improvement projects went forward in the northern counties with a supply of cheap labor … 299 had a convict labor camp near Willow Creek, and I think they used Crescent city convicts in that area.
But where did they get gas?
Great question. It’s not like you can see a lot of gas cans in the back, unless they are laying down… and at 12miles a gallon…. it’s a lot of miles and gas cans? to cover from Willits to Alderpoint? Blocksburg? If cars had been going along the route for some years, there must have been a remedial supply system set up along the way? Ernie can correct me, please, but I think his Rathjen kin didn’t put in the 1st station at Laytonville until shortly after the Redwood Highway opened up…
oh der…. I overlooked the size of the tank being the obvious determining factor for how far the truck could travel between refuelings. I am trying to find the size of the gas tank on that model truck… my gas can conjecture was not bright nor right, pardon me.
Enterprising merchants could have hauled wagonloads of gas cans to way stops before gas stations were developed. That could have been quite lucrative.
That’s a reasonable notion, Thirdeye. Gas was about 25cents a gallon ($2 adjusting for inflation, according to my search)…
David, although the car was a novelty here in 1916, internal combustion engines had been around for decades.
How common would they have been along the vehicle’s route?
Powering sawmills, etc.
Would fuel, then, have maybe been somewhat available?
Just wondering.
Thanks.
We’re all wondering together Guest. I haven’t read, yet, of anyone running out of gas on these early car jaunts… lots of breaking down though. I keep wanting to calculate a 15 gallon tank X a conservative 10mpg for a 150 miles range and one gas can for another 50 miles or so… but that is speculation.
https://www.xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/1914-Buick-Truck.pdf is the link my landline wouldn’t open if anyone cares to investigate some more. Wondering is welcome!