Odd Old News: Afloat and Afoot, Travels Through Mendocino County Into Humboldt, Pt. 4

Eel River Valley, looking north from North Fork 1906 [Photo by Pliny E. Goddard at UC Berkeley, Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology Collection, California Ethnographic Field Photographs]

Nuggets of old news is served up once a week by David Heller, one of our local historians.

After days of traveling through Northern Mendocino county, the party of men seeking to be the first Euro-Americans to float down the Eel River have arrived at what they consider the official start line. Reverend Jas. S. McDonald continues his narration, offering a likely too cheerful report about conditions on the Round Valley reservation, and sharing an “oral history” account of the outlaw tyranny of land baron George White and his right hand man Wylackie John Wathen. The story of George White was captured later in two now out of print books, The Last of the West, by Frank Asbill, and the more academic Genocide and Vendetta by Lynn Carranco and Estle Beard, who used much of Asbill’s account. Expensive and hard to find, they are most valuable sources of some of the dark outlaw history of Round Valley, and surrounding counties. Alternative sources include Rena Lynn’s compilation of her Willits News articles The Story of the Stolen Valley, John Keller’s The Saga of Round Valley: ‘Last of the West’ in the March/April 1983 issue of The Californian.

Last week’s travelogue reported that a group of Wailacki survivors were living near the mouth of the North Fork of the Eel River. We now read of Indian Jim, a Wailacki man whose help was indispensible to the traveling group. With a dramatic sense of the importance of the float, the travelers begin in earnest their journey down the Eel River, only sometimes “Afloat”, and more often, “Afoot”.

Eel River Valley, looking north from North Fork 1906 [Photo by Pliny E. Goddard at UC Berkeley, Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology Collection, California Ethnographic Field Photographs]

DOWN EEL RIVER—Afloat and Afoot Pt. 4

By Reverend Jas. S. McDonald

September 29, 1881

(continued)

The Indians on Round Valley Reservation are well provided for, having food, clothing and the privileges of the school and church furnished them by the Government. All along the river we heard of one man, who lives in a grand and richly furnished mansion in Round Valley, who is the great land grabber of that region. Years ago a boy fell into the hands of one of the Eel river tribes of Indians. He grew to manhood among them, ignorant of his parentage. He is now the chief captain of a band of desperadoes in the employ of this noted land monopolist, and a terror to all who undertake to settle on government lands in those mountains. We have no reason to doubt that there is some truth in the many rumors that connect him and his helpers with the murder of settlers, the burning of cabins, and the capture of spoils for his master. Men are hired to take up the choicest sections of fine grazing range, and no one else is allowed to come in and locate where they will interfere with this monarch of the hills, whose acres are rich and numerous, and who is supposed by some with whom we conversed, to own 70 to 80 thousand sheep. The strong arm of the law ought to be stretched out over such domains, the rights of the government maintained and the poor and defenseless protect- ted. Our chief determined, before reaching the north fork, to undertake to navigate Eel river to the mouth, if a boat could be obtained. Rumors of the existence of a fishing boat at that point had reached us up the river. Among the Indians found at this point was a sprightly young fellow by the name of Jim, who, when we arrived, was engaged in the manly exercise of swimming across the rapid current of the large river He could speak English quite well, and made himself quite useful to the party, among other services, carrying the commissary across the North Fork on his shoulders, when that official had no horse at hand, and was disinclined to wade the stream. He knew of a boat a mile up the river that seemed to be abandoned, but proved to be the property of the reservation. It had been built in Round valley, of rough spruce boards and dragged over the mountain trail on the winter’s snow, to be used by the Indians during the fishing season. In order to get legal and peaceable possession of it, it was found necessary to send Billy to Round valley with a note, to the agent, and order to purchase it any reasonable price. As the agent was an acquaintance of the commissary, he was directed to write that official, explain who these invaders of his dominions were, the nature and importance of their mission, the necessity they were under of following directly down the river, and their pressing need of that boat. It took Billy nearly all of Wednesday to make the trip. Four men, with the oversight of Indian Jim, who manifested deep interest in the proceedings, worked nearly half a day to caulk the leaky boat, in order to keep out all of Eel river that could possibly do so from pouring into it. The newly promoted Commodore, who was about to undertake the hitherto unheard of feat of running the rapids and shooting past the rocks of upper Eel River, took command of the pioneer craft, and he and his assistant, with the aid of a long line and clumsy paddles, let it down from its place among the rocks to the mouth of the North Fork, where we were encamped. Considerable wading, pushing and hauling were necessary to get over the rapids to reach the clear water where they could venture into the boat to row down. It was tied up till Billy should return. Late in the afternoon he arrived with a price named for the boat and an order to take it if satisfied. We were informed by the Indians that it was impossible to go down the stream with the boat; but if we could make the first three miles safely we could go on. The Commodore therefore decided to pack old Hill with blankets and such baggage and provisions as we would need on the voyage, and take the postmaster and their saddle animals and follow down as close to the river as possible; while the “first officer” and the crew, consisting of the commissary of the land expedition, were to run the empty boat down.

[TO BE CONTINUED.]

and more…

DOWN EEL Afloat and Afoot

By Rev. Jas. S. McDonald

Humboldt Times

Sept 30, 1881

In haste to be off, the boat was at once turned down stream, with the three heavy, clumsy pine paddles in hand. The swift current soon carried us to the first rocky rapids, where we had to get out and let the craft down among the rocks. This was a difficult and tedious process, but was accomplished and one we went again. All we had with us was an ax and a bailing bucket, which we had to use frequently. We soon came to a rapid, where we met with our first disaster. In attempting to let the boat down over a considerable fall, it was caught by the current and turned bottom-side up in the twinkling of an eye. Of course our ax and bailing vessel went to the bottom, and we thought our paddles were also lost and our voyage brought to a close for that day. The crew still has a slight trace of a scar on the back of his hand, where the capsized boat dragged it over a rock as it came very near escaping. However, it was drawn in, turned over, and, to our joy, contained the paddles. The first officer bailed it out with his hat, and we again started; but in attempting soon after to cross the river in order to let the boast over a rapid, the crew, who was then pulling on the oars, failed to head it across the swift current, and we were carried over. The boat struck a rock, careened over and partially filled with water, and so demoralized the crew that when it righted up he found himself grasping the sides of the boast, and his paddles afloat in the deep stream from which we had narrowly escaped.

   It is now nearly dark; and just at that point, the commodore came down over the rocks, with blankets and provisions, and we camped among them on some sand. Our meal was not served in courses of soup, roast beef, broiled chicken, and all the substantials and delicacies of a welcome feast.

   After drying our wet garments as best we could before a good fire, we threw our blankets down, but hardly sought was “the sweet restorer, balmy sleep,” when a drizzling rain came on and we had to get everything possible under the shelter of the rocks.

   The night was passed in a rather uncomfortable manner, coffee, bacon and bread and crackers, served up for breakfast. Old Bill packed up again and two or three more miles were made in the manner adopted the previous evening, with less risk and difficulty on the part of the navigators.

    The commodore and his train—the postmaster and old Bill—again came down from the high slopes where they had struggled along, drenched with water from overhanging trees.

    The postmaster was then paid off and started back to regain Billy, at the North Fork. From that point they made their way homewards.

Eel River Valley, looking north from North Fork 1906 [Photo by Pliny E. Goddard at UC Berkeley, Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology Collection, California Ethnographic Field Photographs]

    Then commenced in earnest the notable descent of Eel River. Captain Cook circumnavigated the globe; Columbus crossed the Atlantic and discovered a new world, and Farragut fought his way up the Mississippi, and all gained for themselves immortal renown. But they never did what our commodore did with one officer and an inexperience landsman for a crew.

   Fortunately, he had had experience on a rougher and more dangerous stream than Eel river, and was prepared to fill his now important position in an able manner.

   No danger, and the danger was real, appalled him. No difficulty, and the difficulties were numerous, discouraged him; no disasters baffled or disheartened.

   He was bound to go down that river where boatmen never attempted to go before. His courage was up; and we are now to follow on and witness the progress and results of the expedition. Our blankets and provisions were placed to the best possible advantage, my own, consisting of overcoat, boots, a small blanket, a valuable map and shoes belonging to the Commodore, and a few small articles all bound up in a shawl strap, so that they would share a common fate if an accident occurred; and an accident did occur, when the bundle embarked on it own hook and never made a report of its voyage.

   The river still had rocks and rapids, but they were not as numerous as above. The Commodore, taking the helm, assumed command, with the first officer and crew at the oars. We were frequently out, letting the boat down by the rope.

[TO BE CONTINUED NEXT WEEK IN PART 5]

Earlier Odd and Old News:

There are many, but here are the most recent:

Facebooktwitterpinterestmail

Join the discussion! For rules visit: https://kymkemp.com/commenting-rules

Comments system how-to: https://wpdiscuz.com/community/postid/10599/

Subscribe
Notify of
guest

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

15 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

The canyon looks naked without the railroad. The riverbed changed a lot during the ’55 and the ’64 flood.

Juanita
Guest
Juanita
3 years ago

Interesting to me that there was enough water to float any kind of boat. Go look at the river right now. Same time of year as this excursion. They would be portaging that boat more than floating….

Jeffersonian
Guest
Jeffersonian
3 years ago
Reply to  Juanita

The water wasnt going down the russian river then nor were there thousands of pot growers.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

I would imagine that the Indians were glad to rid themselves of the boat. The river is just too rough to navigate comfortably. The history of boating on any part of the Eel was met with great frustration in the early days.

I once took a ride with Fred Nunnemaker In his Glasspar G3 Ski boat from Eel rock to Brock Creek during high water. It was fun going up river, but down river was a little spooky. He had to go down river at full throttle to dodge the rocks and rapids. We lived. He said that he had done it before, I’m not sure if he ever did it again.

Juanita
Guest
Juanita
3 years ago

What time of year?
The expedition described here was late September.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago
Reply to  Juanita

Winter, high water.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

Thanks for the feedback mike, all I have had to go on is Goddard’s photo descriptions, if he gave any specifics…I would have loved to have ordered the photos more accurately to go with the journey, if I knew any better, or knew the terrain. As always, I welcome corrections and challenges to what I post.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

David
The photos are a pretty accurate depiction of the main Eel. It is all rocky and rugged. Even moreso before the floods.

The section of the main Eel that has always interested me is where the massive slide in prehistory dammed up the entire river, and did not wash out completely for years. It is said that the natural dam took so long to clearly wash out that it created an entirely new species of salmon. It was somewhere below where your story today ends.

I’m Pretty sure that it had something to do with Global warming. (Really) It happen sometime after the Glaciers melted.

Here is a link to the natural dam that I referenced above. fascinating stuff!
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/11/111114152404.htm

Geist
Guest
Geist
3 years ago

That is very cool. Thank you for the link! I had no idea!

THOGM
Guest
THOGM
3 years ago

I remember when Kym posted about this here:

https://kymkemp.com/2011/11/15/ancient-lake-on-the-eel-river/

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  THOGM

Cool info segue about the big slide there Ernie and THOGM/Kym.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

As an interesting side note, the newcomers think that logging cause the 400 foot tall natural Landslide.

Ernie Branscomb
Guest
Ernie Branscomb
3 years ago

Bad Joke, Sorry.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago

Just an old inside joke from the good ol’ days on your blog Ernie. 😉

gunther
Guest
gunther
3 years ago

Where the North Fork connects with the main Eel is a few miles south of Island Mountain. I used to fish it in the winter for Steelhead. The workers on the NWP Railroad called it Ramsey. Mile post 188, if my memory is correct.