Odd Old News: It’s a Gas–A Look at ‘Oil Springs’ and Fuel ‘Escapes’ in Our Local Area

Bear River and Mattole River watersheds. [Photo from the Humboldt Room Swanlund-Baker Photograph Collections]

Bear River and Mattole River watersheds. [Photo from the Humboldt Room Swanlund-Baker Photograph Collections]

Nuggets of old news served up once a week by David Heller, one of our local historians.

A previous Odd Old News article described the 1890’s discoveries of oil and gas deposits in Southern Humboldt, but, as is widely known, the first major discovery of oil in California was in the Mattole Valley near the town of Petrolia.

The indigenous Betol and Nekanni people had centuries of familiarity with oil coming out of the ground in their region, what follows are some of the earliest recorded Euro-American reports of Mattole’s “oil springs.” The first such mention comes from Seth Kinman’s account of his 1856 journey through the area:

Along some of the streams in numerous places, petroleum oozes out of the ground in considerable quantities and some companies have since prospected for it… Another peculiarity is the innumerable gas jets or springs. By lighting a match to these, they will burn for a considerable length of time. (Seth Kinman’s Manuscript and Scrapbook, A Ferndale Museum Publication, 2010, p.56).

Word of mouth news of these petroleum deposits had traveled south down the coast by the early spring of 1858. Post commander at Ft. Bragg, 1st Lt. Horatio G. Gates of the 3rd US Artillery, reported to his superiors that he was concerned over the absence of Mendocino Reservation sub-agent Captain H.L. Ford

…who left here with seven other persons for the Mattole River near Capd Mendocino intending to return with one of the party to the Agency. Three weeks have now elapsed since his departure, and should nothing be heard of him at Nome Cult or Humboldt, he may be considered to have lost his life.(NARA microfilm MF 2114, 4/8/1858). 

Sub-agent Ford returned before the military could go looking for him, but no record has been found of his journey’s discoveries.

Following sub-agent Ford’s accidental death in the summer of 1860, Lt. Edward Dillon of the 6th U.S. Infantry took charge of the Mendocino Reservation until a successor to Ford could be named. It is his 1861 ‘discovery’ of the oil deposit in that is cited in some histories. In a unpublished mid-January letter to his mother, Lt. Dillon described his three week expedition up the coast as being about as hard of a journey as he had ever had. After being soaked to the skin day and night for 15 out of 17 days, and traversing some of the roughest country he had ever seen, Lt. Dillon reported that he was fortunate to have found the oil spring he sought, “in connection” with several parties. He ascertained that it was a valuable piece of property, and that the petroleum was of great value, for its own value, but also as an indicator of possible coal. If he had any notions of exploiting his findings, the call of Civil War duty thwarted them.

The several parties that Dillon mentioned may have been the men who announced in the Sonoma Journal and Mining press on February 1, 1861 that outside investors were obtaining the rights to drill near Cape Mendocino. Local newspaper stories of oil in the Mattole region first appeared in the Humboldt Times in 1859. This 1861 article provides some interesting details and a poor suggestion:

The miners for natural coal oil are very sanguine that they have their fortune in store, in Lower Mattole Valley. Maj. McCoy has a natural spring, out of which he dipped as many as 30 gallons in one week….near the Mattole are a number of escapes, out of which is constantly issuing gas, which has the peculiar small of the manufactured article which lights all of our principal towns and cities; and when a blaze is applied, it readily ignites and will blaze up many feet in the air. One of these escapes is in the Mattole river, near the centre; and with a torch, any person who has the curiosity to try it, may do what few people have thought possible—set the river on fire….These escapes are not confined entirely to this particular neighborhood. There are a number of them on Bear River, some 15 miles north of Mattole, and above Cape Mendocino.

(Humboldt Times, 11/5/1861)

The ‘War on Indians’ and the War of the Rebellion slowed the economic development of Mattole oil, but the town of Petrolia was founded in 1865 in anticipation of an oil industry boom. State historical marker No. 543 in Petrolia commemorates “California’s First Drilled Oil Wells”.

A photograph of California Historical Landmark #543 in Petrolia, California. The caption reads: NO. 543 CALIFORNIA'S FIRST DRILLED OIL WELLS - California's first drilled oil wells that produced crude to be refined and sold commercially were located on the North Fork of the Mattole River approximately three miles east of here. The old Union Mattole Oil Company made its first shipment of oil from here, to a San Francisco refinery, in June 1865. Many old well heads remain today. Historical Landmark #543. Plaque placed by the California State Park Commission in cooperation with the Eureka Oil Information Committee and the Western Oil and Gas Association. November 10, 1955"

A photograph of California Historical Landmark #543 in Petrolia, California. The caption reads: NO. 543 CALIFORNIA’S FIRST DRILLED OIL WELLS – California’s first drilled oil wells that produced crude to be refined and sold commercially were located on the North Fork of the Mattole River approximately three miles east of here. The old Union Mattole Oil Company made its first shipment of oil from here, to a San Francisco refinery, in June 1865. Many old well heads remain today. Historical Landmark #543. Plaque placed by the California State Park Commission in cooperation with the Eureka Oil Information Committee and the Western Oil and Gas Association. November 10, 1955″

As “Oil Fever” grew in 1865, the Humboldt Times announced of the creation of numerous Oil Districts, large swaths of land covering most of Southern Humboldt were staked out. At the height of this excitement comes this report on the oil prospects and the development of the new town of Petrolia.

Matters in Humboldt County.— A correspondent of the Union, writing from Petrolia, Humboldt county, July 30th, gives the following interesting notes concerning oil and other matters; I have not been very prompt in correspondence of late for the reason that, having located myself in the petroleum region of Mattole,

I thought I would wait for further developments and see things for myself to the end that I might speak from actual observation of a section that has become somewhat famous among the oil fields of the Pacific. This observation has convinced me thoroughly of the vast, and unmistakable reservoirs of coal oil in this vicinity. So far as has been prospected, the indications of its existence seem to be sure and most certain, extending over an area of say forty miles on the coast, that is from Bear Harbor and Shelter Cove to Cape Mendocino and back some fifteen or twenty miles.

Without pretending to the least scientific knowledge of the geological or mineralogical indications, I am compelled to speak of it in plain and simple language most easily understood by ordinary minds. I believe that on every quarter section within the above described limits that the oil exists in greater or less quantities, and that some signs have been or may be found, among which are the regular shale, or oil rock gas springs, which ignite readily by applying a lighted match, and in many places oil springs where may be dipped out the pure and unadulterated coal oil, which is of the very best quality for both lubricating and luminating purposes, without the least preparation. Several of these springs are within a scope of five miles of this place, and the oil is used by many in common kerosene lamps, and burns equal to the best article sold in the cities. This I know, for I have got it myself and am using it.

There are, so far as I can learn, some twenty-five boring machines either at work, in course of construction, or in transition hither. All seem sanguine of ultimate success. The strongest and most striking and palpable indications yet visible to the naked eye of the most ignorant and casual observer is, the noted Union Company’s well, where, at a depth of one hundred and twenty-five feet, the pure grease rose to nicety-five feet deep in the pipe, and nineteen barrels were pumped out on Wednesday last. They are making a tank of a one hundred barrel capacity, which amount will be forwarded to San Francisco as soon as casks can be obtained.

Capitalists in San Francisco, Sacramento and many other places have been here and are satisfied to invest, which many of them have done, and are preparing to work their claims. An outlet for this commodity is wanted, and an incorporated company has made the survey preparatory to the building a road to Centerville, from which point transportation is sure and easy. At present freight comes and goes by pack-mules, at three cents from Eureka—distance fifty miles.

This is a fine grazing country, and immense numbers of cattle and other stock are raised here. The dairy business seems to have been the leading pursuit previous to the discovery of oil. Some thirty-five farmers constitute the old settlement, Scores of prospectors are running to and fro like most other mining localities.

Quite a smart little town is springing up, and lacks: nothing but building material to make a handsome show. A steam saw-mill is on the way hither and a brickyard is in full blast. There are four or five ministers, no lawyers, but two doctors; a good school and well attended. All the necessaries of life are reasonably sold. There is a good store, and another going up by Suydam & Co., of Sacramento.” (Sacramento Daily Union, 8/12/1865)

Alas, the bright prospects for oil development had faded by 1867 as was noted by a visitor to the Mattole:

The Union Well is the only one where oil has been struck in this county with one exception, and this furnishes but about one gallon a day. The Union well furnishes about thirty gallons per day, which of course will pay nothing. A great many wells are sunk along the creek, but without success; one being sunk fourteen hundred feet. All are deserted but the Union, which is being sunk deeper with the hope of striking another strata somewhere below.” (Sacramento Weekly Rescue, 8/17/67)

Following after the initial discoveries of oil in Pennsylvania, the petroleum deposits of the Mattole Valley region attracted much outside interest, but drilling proved to be commercially unprofitable. However, another wave of “Oil Fever” occurred decades later in the Mattole and elsewhere in Southern Humboldt. It was a fever that led to more grandiose, but empty, dreams of prosperity:

There is no doubt but that the richest oil fields in the world are in the Mattole country. (Humboldt Times, 8/9/1900)

 

A number of people have written in far more depth about Oil in the Mattole, Mattole Historian Laura Cooskey’s Early Oil Exploration in the Lower Mattole article was a helpful reference for this article. And, for those wishing to know more about the subject from a geological perspective, K.R. Aalto, a geologist at HSU, wrote an excellent paper titled PETROLIA, CALIFORNIA’S FIRST OIL FIELDA CENTURY OF DISAPPOINTMENT.

Earlier Odd and Old News:

There are many more, but here are the most recent:

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23 Comments
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Nature bats last
Guest
Nature bats last
3 years ago

R.I.P. Ken Aalto. Truly Humboldt O.G. (original geologist) ⚒

he was a mentor
Guest
he was a mentor
3 years ago

I wholeheartedly second that. A great geologist and a helluva man.

Guest
Guest
Guest
3 years ago

For all the history of failure to easily produce a profitable oil field, the thing that struck most was the paragraph “There are four or five ministers, no lawyers, but two doctors; a good school and well attended. All the necessaries of life are reasonably sold. There is a good store, and another going up by Suydam & Co., of Sacramento.” sounds like heaven- a school, some doctors and no lawyers.

geoffrey davis
Guest
geoffrey davis
3 years ago

No lawyers?AMEN…… Hopefully they all made like frogs and croaked on the trails north……They were all probably schistering over @ the Nome Cult, skinning the natives for George White…..Thanks David for yet another wonderful study. Hoping your well.

geoffrey davis
Guest
geoffrey davis
3 years ago

Does anyone ever sell that oil? Today? i would really like to get some asphalt-um…. Anyone? Maybe asphalt-um only on the surface far to the south…Anyone thanks.

Willow Creeker
Guest
Willow Creeker
3 years ago
Reply to  geoffrey davis

One place I know of In petrolia runs their off grid property from a natural gas well on the property. I think that is so cool.

petrolioid
Guest
petrolioid
3 years ago
Reply to  Willow Creeker

I havn’t heard recent confirmation of anybody still doing that, but there are some seeps still. Besides the famous one at Bear River, There’s a light-able seep upstream of Bundle Prairie Creek, in the river, and one on Cow Creek in the ‘Park. if one could collect and compress it they seem to provide at least a household’s worth of gas.
There was a ford truck out here, converted to a diesel Perkins engine in the late ’70s or early 80s, that was intended to run on condensate, a light oil. It is still around.

Willie Bray
Guest
3 years ago

🕯🌳Kind of sounds like the Beverly Hill Billies to me. Jed a his crew did alright. 🌍🐸🖖👍🏽

The Real Brian
Guest
The Real Brian
3 years ago

So, is that why Petrolia was named as it is?

Mr. Bear
Guest
Mr. Bear
3 years ago
Reply to  The Real Brian

yes

James dean
Guest
James dean
3 years ago
Reply to  The Real Brian

There are some great books on it Brian. Ray Raphael two people one place I believe has it in there. Lara cooksie would know, part of the cooksie ridge namesake I’m guessing. The matole historian

Moo Cow
Guest
Moo Cow
2 years ago
Reply to  James dean

Oh wow, didn’t know Ray wrote a book on that too – thanks for the heads up and thanks Kym for the interesting article…

Papa Wheelies
Guest
Papa Wheelies
3 years ago

Lt Horatio Gates is my neighbor’s great great grandfather.

He will be stoked to read this.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Papa Wheelies

Papa Wheelies– your neighbor would really be thrilled to read a number of military reports that Lt. Gates wrote that I would share, if they wants to get in touch with me. I think if they emailed kym through her contact email, she would forward it along to me…

Papa Wheelies
Guest
Papa Wheelies
3 years ago
Reply to  David Heller

Thank you David!

We both share the Gates Family name, my maternal grandfather had Gates as his dad. I thought we might have been related…

I will absolutely pass on the information.

Great story!

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Papa Wheelies

http://www.militarymuseum.org/FtBragg.html

Will get you two started on a little history of Lt. Gates at Ft. Bragg.

Chuck U
Guest
Chuck U
3 years ago

Light the river on fire? Oil all over the ground? Where the hell was CDFW?

lauracooskey
Guest
lauracooskey
3 years ago

Thank you, David! Good work dredging up the facts and putting together stories. Seth Kinman’s observation must have sparked a lot of interest at the time. I hadn’t read about Lt. Dillon and his involvement in the 1861 discovery, and in fact still don’t know exactly where that first oil find was. There are several locations along the coast near Davis Creek that are possible. You might be interested in a fictional account in one of those mid-20th-century Western magazines which tells of Jack Davis and his ranch, when that first discovery was made… I have a copy of the mag over at the Grange.
The 1890s and 1920s attempts, and even the most recent notable one, in the 1950s, expended quite a bit of capital in exploring. I hope Dr. Aalto’s conclusions will be heeded, and we won’t have much more poking around here in search of black gold.
(PS That top photo is a view of Petrolia looking East/Southeast, taken after 1912)

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  lauracooskey

Thanks Laura, first.. let’s get that great new article by Nicole Log linked in here which explains more of why oil wasn’t developed: https://mattolehistory.wordpress.com/2020/05/13/mattole-oil-booms-the-rest-of-the-story/—

I have seen two different small articles about the oil discovery stating something like”discovered by a military officer”… so I was glad to find who they were talking about. Like Lt. Gates, Lt. Dillon saw the abuse of Native Americans at the reservations and spoke out about it. It’s hard to find humane Euro-American voices in the genocide era. Thanks for your great article–

Guest
Guest
Guest
3 years ago
Reply to  David Heller

Tried the link and it gave me a bad return.

David Heller
Guest
David Heller
3 years ago
Reply to  Guest

Thanks for the heads-up Guest… my initial copy and paste has a dash at the end…? and I failed to test it… try this
https://mattolehistory.wordpress.com/2020/05/13/mattole-oil-booms-the-rest-of-the-story/

Moo Cow
Guest
Moo Cow
2 years ago
Reply to  Guest

Still dead link 1/22 – I’ll see if I can find..
.here it is:
https://mattolehistory.wordpress.com/2020/05/13/mattole-oil-booms-the-rest-of-the-story/

Last edited 2 years ago
Perspective
Guest
Perspective
3 years ago

Natural gas bubbles up from deep in the ocean at Cape Mendocino.