Chronicle Visits Humboldt…Spends Most of Its Time North of Eureka–What’s Up With That?
Some of the beauty missed by today’s writer in the San Francisco Chronicle. The Eel River near Bridge Creek Road on the Avenue of the Giants south of Myers Flat at Eagle Point. [Drone photo by Christina Lombardi]
So we’ve decided to take a look at SOME of what he missed in SoHum alone and write our opinionated opinion about what should be seen. (Central and eastern Humboldt deserve indignant posts of their own.)
Here’s our suggested tour for the Bay Area tourist. Before you cross into Humboldt heading north on Hwy 101, prepare to slow down by taking exit 627 off Hwy 101 and travel north on Hwy 271.
Humboldt-Mendocino County Line on Highway 271 over the South Fork Eel River.[Photo by David Wilson]
Employees at the One Log Tree Lounge are ready to discuss cannabis. [Photo by Kym Kemp]
Benbow Inn [Photo by Mark McKenna]
A must stop for most visitors is the historic Benbow Inn, an elegant place to stay and eat right on the Eel River. The view of the curved bridge is lovely and take a hike up to see the Julia Morgan house and an eagles’ nest. An RV campground and golf course are across the 101 for those so inclined.
Just north of that the small town of Garberville offers several places to stay (Sherwood Forest Motel and the Humboldt House Inn) and eat (Cecil’s and the Woodrose are two of our favorites). And the Blue Moon, Sweet Grass, the Garden of Beadin’ and Feather Rose offer charming shopping and there are more options besides those.
Now, comes a choice–head west to the Lost Coast or north to the Avenue of the Giants. Or, do both…
Camping overlooking the Pacific Ocean from Paradise Ridge in the King Range, southern Humboldt County. [ Composite photo by David Wilson]
Elk at Bear Harbor. [Photo by Kym Kemp]
Gyppo Ale Mill, California’s most remote brewery, offers a unique food and locals experience. Black Sands Beach is famous for its beauty as well as its dangers and Bear Harbor with its elk herds and remote green hill hikes is a memory you will never forget.
Next, to the north, the Avenue of the Giants is world famous for its towering trees. Drive through for a restful experience but stop and hike and swim for the full beauty. There are so many places to visit here that it is hard to pare down the list to a manageable size. Swim at Turtle Rock not far from the Chimney Tree Grill or under the Miranda Bridge (Please pick up after yourself!)
Bigfoot licks an ice cream cone in this Sweet Cravings sign with its creator, Bruce Willis. [Photo provided by Jessica Willis]
Bolling Grove [Photo by Kym Kemp]
Southern Humboldt Milky Way over towering Redwoods on the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. [Photos by David Wilson]
- Bolling Grove–Beauty, history and a creek running through the redwoods right on the Avenue of the Giants
- Women’s Federation Grove–an albino redwood, a massive stone fireplace, and a swimming hole right on the Avenue.
- The sorrel in the Grieg-French-Bell grove near Pepperwood (also has the Girdled Tree.)
- Founders Grove–The massive downed giants help give a sense of the size of these trees.
- Rockerfeller Grove–If you can only do one grove, this is it. Truly exquisite.
- Drury Chaney Loop–Gorgeous
- Pepperwood–those farmers stands are the best!! You can’t get better fresh food.
- Lots more hikes and trails
For a traveler headed north, next up is central Humboldt. Here’s a taste:
To the west is the wonderful Wildcat/Mattole road that leads from the Rockefeller forest to the Victorian Village of Ferndale.
Mattole River Estuary. [Photo from the Mattole Restoration Council]
To the east out Hwy 36 is Grizzly Creek Redwoods for some great camping, fishing, and swimming.
Come visit Southern Humboldt in the spring–It’s a magical place.
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Now, what did I forget to mention?
I hope not much! My aunt from Chile will be driving the 101 from Sonoma to Oregon in a few weeks, while she visits me and the family.
It will be her first time through the area. You dont know how wonderfully timed this article is for us! Thanks!
Now, for her Mendocino leg of the Journey?…
HWY 1 Mendocino the town. Everything…but especially the bookstore. Point Cabrillo Lighthouse. Jughandle state park. Eggheads for Breakfast in Fort Bragg. Ride the Skunk Train? Hwy 101 Leggett Drive thru tree. The Peg House north of Leggett. Stop and shop Willits—it has fun stores.
So awesome Kym, thank you!
Your Amazing!
One Log House is the perfect place to be extravagantly overcharged for weed by some of the most self-absorbed land abusers in “the business.”
Which is really saying something.
Scott, you’re keeping your curmudgeon alive. I challenge you to tell me your favorite public place to take folks in Southern Humboldt. I’ll bet you know some beauties.
Mendocino Botanical Gardens, the Rhododendrons are spectacular now and the ocean view breathtaking!
I go there almost once a year. How could I forget? I love that.
Still rocking my hat from Isla Grand DE Chiloe. Like stepping back in time down there. Like 100 years.
Great book to read, “Solitude” takes place in southern Chile. Nothing but good things down there.
everything you mentioned are fantastic , all worth mentioning for site seers
how bout south jetty or centerville beach
cant visit humboldt without ocean spray in the face , at least for a few minutes
South Jetty and Centerville Beach are great suggestions. I love the Tablebluff overlook–one of the best places to watch a sunset!
The 80 year old and pretty fabulous RIVERWOOD INN☺
Truly lovely spot for a beer and ask about their ghost. https://kymkemp.com/2008/03/18/the-lusty-lady/
A beautiful insiders’ tour; thanks!
Folks from the north should check out SoHum. They’ll fall in love with where they live all over again. And May is the absolute most beautiful month in Southern Humboldt. May in Humboldt should be designated a UNESCO Heritage site
Browns Sporting Goods in Garberville! That store is a classic small town place to get almost anything a country person would need. Heck. Tourists need socks, a warm knit cap, rain and fishing gear, batteries, lots of stuff! The atmosphere and staff are super casual. It’s a mess in the way that shows that they are very authentic in offering a ton of stuff, without the need to ‘dress it up’ to seduce you to buy.
On my scorecard, Brown’s gets the So Hum ‘Authenticity Award’!
They have a great sign, too. Not quite as good as the Eel River Cafe’s but pretty darn good.
You did well, short of writing a book(?!). The Lost Coast tour will not only take them through Rockefeller Redwoods through the Mattole to Ferndale, but also past Cape Mendocino, the westernmost point in the lower 48. Some claim Washington State, but reports say that is only at low tide.
bah the tatsue islands are the most westernly point in the lower 48. gps proves it. unless lowrance is so far off.
Boardwalk in Eureka, Ma-Le’ Dunes in Samoa, Samoa Cookhouse with the logging exhibits and pictures
All good!
In Klamath, the Indian artifacts museum and lift at the Paul Bunyan stop. How about Fern Canyon and horse back rides available in Klamath and the wandering elk herd(s)?
Nice! All great suggestions.
Jet boat rides also in Klamath
Playing frisbee golf or taking a stroll at the Southern Humboldt Community park. Visiting Tooby Playground, or swimming under the bridge. http://www.Sohumpark.org
I knew I was forgetting some important stuff. The park is a gem!
Can you find the David Chain bronze plaque memorial inset in a giant boulder that was moved to Tooby Park after it was repeatedly and brutally vandalized out on highway 36….. for years. Thank you, Earth Firsters for moving it, repairing it and installing it in Tooby Park.
Redwood Raindrops at their new location 773 Redwood Drive in Garberville! ! I look forward to the day my little wellness centers name is included for tourists as well 🙂 excellent article Kim, thanks for all you do for our community!
Have you reached out to the Chamber? They have a list of businesses. They are a great resource.
Thanks for the great article Kym!
that’s an amazing list!How about the Chamber of Commerce if you still have questions, like about other accommodations. did you mention the grocery stores like chautauqua?
I tried to stick to things most tourists visit so I didn’t do grocery stores but Chautauqua is a gem.
🕯🌳I think you did a really great job. That’s why we come here.
Is the BigFoot place still passed Benbow? It was my husband and mines favorite place to spend some time.
True…The Legend of Bigfoot Burl shop is a great place for tourists to visit! https://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/21672
I pointed out all the wonderful groves down here as well as a bunch of trails that run along the river that has great swimming but they suggested people just blow through on the Ave. of the Giants and go straight north.
Well done! Thanks, Kym!
This makes me wanna go out for a rip!
That is a great list, Kym, with good ideas in the comments as well. Your site is a must for people passing through (and for all of us, too, of course!). Maybe you could keep just such a list handy for any new visitor to easily find.
Humboldt visitors can also pick up copies of publications like the weekly North Coast Journal or the quarterly Humboldt Insider magazine for Arts and Entertainment happenings and other ideas. They’re both free.
For instance, I wrote the Stargazing article for the current Humboldt Insider about our Humboldt night skies, and there are other articles about places and things to do, including a good review of Garberville’s Souji House.
Here’ our beautiful South Fork Eel River across from the California Federation of Women’s Clubs Grove:
Dang, I wish my comment software would allow a better resolution on that.
You used to have to pay $1000 per shot to get that effect with the 24inx24in Polaroid that came to HSU a couple times…now all ya gotta do is load it here!
Any non local outlet always lays a ton of press on northern Humboldt or eastern Humboldt. So Hum never gets any love.
You may want to leave your golf clubs home…. the Benbow KOA Golf Course looks pretty sad.
Seems that most of the Highway 101 related tourism was related to Humboldt still being considered remote back in the day before 101 became a high speed road and the travel time from the bay area to Eureka and points north became a fraction of what it used to be. Tooling up 101 in a station wagon with the kids, stopping at roadside attractions, enjoying the rivers and the redwoods, was a thing to do either on a long weekend or on the way to the Oregon coast. When 101 became a freeway starting around 1965 it changed all that. And of course the Eel River used to have a world-class salmon run and Eureka was a sport fishing destination. Now it’s all about bed and breakfasts in cute destination towns such as Fort Bragg, Ferndale, and Trinidad, and what’s on the way doesn’t matter so much.
Thanks for that important reflection on the way it used to be. The “station wagon” mention is very evocative. My mom used to take us on trips in her station wagon, so I know what you are saying. It was quite a fun adventure.
That’s the cool thing about Miranda and Rio Dell. They’re like monuments to the old Highway 101 economy and culture.
Very nicely done, Kym!
Thank you Kym for your wonderful counter article! Thank you for being such a dedicated localist!
I like that term–dedicated localist! I want a t-shirt and everyone who is involved in the movement to put up murals and clean up trash should get one, too!
I’m basically going to use your article as a recommended “to-do” list on our website, Kym! VERY WELL DONE!
Wahoo!
Thank you, Kym.
Why advertise this place
Because a lot of good people will lose jobs and leave if businesses don’t have tourist income. Also, there’s a lot of beauty here. Let’s share some with a starved world.
Gosh. If my mom had not taken me to ‘places like this’ with forests and streams, when I was young, I am not sure I would have found a vital part of myself. So, YES, BRING PEOPLE HERE to get a taste of life in the country!
With Humboldt County being the size of three Rhode Islands, it is often difficult to represent all our county IMO. SoHumVB and NCJ are spending I believe, 2.3 million dollars in print advertising right now with “Elevate The Magic” campaign, yet only with local publications/web I’ve seen, why????… Why differentiate yourselves so much?
I don’t like the title of this article from a cohesion the community standpoint, great otherwise. All Humboldt, no matter where. Peace.
All humboldt would have been better. Im disappointed in kym for that.
Ever taste a Rhode Island Chili Dog? They are unbelievably good!
Hi Kym,
Thanks for the great article and for including Briceland Vineyards. It is worth mentioning that in addition to a meal at Redwood Palace, guests can treat themselves to fresh oysters and a fine selection of local wines and beer. Briceland is well represented of course.
Thanks again,
Andrew Morris
Winemaker
Briceland Vineyards
What about the higher than normal number of missing people in Humboldt county? Its creepy
It actually sounded to me like Nohum doesn’t exist. Are Trinidad and Orick still in Humboldt county.
Oh you guys live in the Southern half of Humboldt forgot the northern half…. Praire Creek Redwoods Park, Fern Canyon and all of the amazing trails. Bald Hills Road, School house Look out. You can walk to it right off of Bald hills road. The huge meadows when the Lupin blume’s, Roosevelt Elk from Orick north to Prarie creek. Strawberry Rock in Trinidad, Trinidad Head, Stone Lagoon, Big Lagoon And Freshwater Lagoon. Then the Arcata Forest behind HSU. Ask a Local ask for the hole in the wall restaurants for the best food in any town.
Fern Canyon, Trinidad (everywhere), the Lupin blooms, the Lagoons, the Elk all are lovely.
I call Humboldt the “GodLand” and this article shows why. No offense to atheists.
I can’t believe Trinidad, Houda Point, Patrick’s Point, and the lagoons were left out! Just as well, more places to not be ruined by Socal!