Diseased Pot

A reader sent in photos of these plants asking if I could post them for help on what disease they have and what can be done to treat them.

Click on photos to enbiggen them.

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69 comments

  • The problem is the camera is out of focus. Those pics suck really bad.

    • Yeah, well we can’t all be killer photographers. I just wanted to get something up and get an opinion from someone with a clue. That, obviously wasn’t you.

      • I’m just being candid. If you’re camera has a macro feature (usually just the push of a button), take a few close ups…that’d make all the difference in the world. Sounds like powdery mildew. Sulfur or GC3 (99% sure of the name, been awhile) if you can find it. GC3 is basically garlic, cottonseed and corn oil with baking soda in a medium, I have no idea why it’s not more popular than it is. Kills on contact, you’ll notice a difference the next day. Excellent for young plants because you can soak em with it, in proper concentration you can even get clone roots wet without harm.

  • The problem is the camera is out of focus. Those pics suck really bad.

    • Yeah, well we can’t all be killer photographers. I just wanted to get something up and get an opinion from someone with a clue. That, obviously wasn’t you.

      • I’m just being candid. If you’re camera has a macro feature (usually just the push of a button), take a few close ups…that’d make all the difference in the world. Sounds like powdery mildew. Sulfur or GC3 (99% sure of the name, been awhile) if you can find it. GC3 is basically garlic, cottonseed and corn oil with baking soda in a medium, I have no idea why it’s not more popular than it is. Kills on contact, you’ll notice a difference the next day. Excellent for young plants because you can soak em with it, in proper concentration you can even get clone roots wet without harm.

  • They start out as tiny white spots that gradually grow into bigger white spots that eventually kill the leaf. I have tried Serenade garden disease control (for organic gardens) but don’t see any results. Can someone helP>

    • Serenade is a bacterial culture and takes time to work. I think it would be hard to damage by over spraying. Roots organics is good soil your plants should do fine in it. It is a weed after all.

  • They start out as tiny white spots that gradually grow into bigger white spots that eventually kill the leaf. I have tried Serenade garden disease control (for organic gardens) but don’t see any results. Can someone helP>

    • Serenade is a bacterial culture and takes time to work. I think it would be hard to damage by over spraying. Roots organics is good soil your plants should do fine in it. It is a weed after all.

  • hard to see but probably powdery mildew. Try Safer sulphur spray.

  • hard to see but probably powdery mildew. Try Safer sulphur spray.

  • All overgrow.com style.

    That’s prolly like one or two of two dozen things.

    Google all this shit if you like…

    Stop spraying in the light if you are. Drench with epsom salt if you ain’t. Correct the pH with dolomite or whatev you need. Use less nutrients. Don’t water so much.

    • Hmmmm…..was spraying in indirect light…will quit. Forgot about the Epsoms salt. Use a PH balancer. Only nutrients are whats in the soil….(Root Organics) Not been watering the little one’s that much….less than a gallon a week. Thanks……yours was the opinion I was looking for.

  • All overgrow.com style.

    That’s prolly like one or two of two dozen things.

    Google all this shit if you like…

    Stop spraying in the light if you are. Drench with epsom salt if you ain’t. Correct the pH with dolomite or whatev you need. Use less nutrients. Don’t water so much.

    • Hmmmm…..was spraying in indirect light…will quit. Forgot about the Epsoms salt. Use a PH balancer. Only nutrients are whats in the soil….(Root Organics) Not been watering the little one’s that much….less than a gallon a week. Thanks……yours was the opinion I was looking for.

  • Word, it looks like mag deficiency and/or water drop burn. I seen ones before with that where they thought it was thrips so they sprayed more and got even more dots from drops.

    • Thanks again. I probably over sprayed and won’t do that again. I am going to let them rest for a couple of days and dry out some then add the epsoms salt. Can you tell me how much to use per gallon of water?

  • Word, it looks like mag deficiency and/or water drop burn. I seen ones before with that where they thought it was thrips so they sprayed more and got even more dots from drops.

    • Thanks again. I probably over sprayed and won’t do that again. I am going to let them rest for a couple of days and dry out some then add the epsoms salt. Can you tell me how much to use per gallon of water?

  • Thrips are BAD this year, but I think it’s watering in direct sun ( after 10am ) or you have rust going on. Good luck, life is all about learning from failure- it’s just how you deal with it.

  • Thrips are BAD this year, but I think it’s watering in direct sun ( after 10am ) or you have rust going on. Good luck, life is all about learning from failure- it’s just how you deal with it.

  • Thanks for helping out Confused.

  • Thanks for helping out Confused.

  • Black Flag in Del Norte there’s all ten trillion thrips out blazing silver trails.

    • Conserve is a great product with an agricultural pre harvest interval-

      Mr.Nice, haven’t been to Del Norte for many months now- Trinity is much more fun with a fraction of the enemy fly-bys and village burns.

      Stay away from the stupid hippie products, namely Roots Organic- stupid hippies can’t even think of their own name- the REAL Roots can be found at http://www.rootsinc.com and I recommend starting with Roots 1-2-3 for all you followers who don’t even know what a pesticide license is. Agri-plex is even better for general use as a booster. I guess smoking dope really makes it so you don’t have a clue— waiting to see Roots sue the fake ass 707 company that brings in it’s products from Oregon, seeing how there isn’t a topsoil factory that does a decent job until you hit Washington State- see Cedar Grove Compost for a glimpse of people in Ag who do a job that isn’t dope related or a rip-off.

      • Not to libel a company who does have some alright products like their mycorrhizae trichoderma mix… but you are right that the roots products are pretty much fucked. Even that one canine farm company got some products that aren’t exactly great. Nothing beats that multi-dimensional brand for shotty batches. That local nutes company too does make some good shit but then expand out into all kinna products they have no consistency in making. Remember that one bloom burn shit or whatever it was called? Fuck. Now that Anguillidae company makes good shit but the dosage on their labels is dumb. They should flat out say “experiment hella and then apply that dose.”

        I get dirt from that one dirt delivery service we all seen the sign. Uncarved regular dirt. Like a canvas. I don’t like the pre-fab bag shit.

  • Black Flag in Del Norte there’s all ten trillion thrips out blazing silver trails.

    • Conserve is a great product with an agricultural pre harvest interval-

      Mr.Nice, haven’t been to Del Norte for many months now- Trinity is much more fun with a fraction of the enemy fly-bys and village burns.

      Stay away from the stupid hippie products, namely Roots Organic- stupid hippies can’t even think of their own name- the REAL Roots can be found at http://www.rootsinc.com and I recommend starting with Roots 1-2-3 for all you followers who don’t even know what a pesticide license is. Agri-plex is even better for general use as a booster. I guess smoking dope really makes it so you don’t have a clue— waiting to see Roots sue the fake ass 707 company that brings in it’s products from Oregon, seeing how there isn’t a topsoil factory that does a decent job until you hit Washington State- see Cedar Grove Compost for a glimpse of people in Ag who do a job that isn’t dope related or a rip-off.

      • Not to libel a company who does have some alright products like their mycorrhizae trichoderma mix… but you are right that the roots products are pretty much fucked. Even that one canine farm company got some products that aren’t exactly great. Nothing beats that multi-dimensional brand for shotty batches. That local nutes company too does make some good shit but then expand out into all kinna products they have no consistency in making. Remember that one bloom burn shit or whatever it was called? Fuck. Now that Anguillidae company makes good shit but the dosage on their labels is dumb. They should flat out say “experiment hella and then apply that dose.”

        I get dirt from that one dirt delivery service we all seen the sign. Uncarved regular dirt. Like a canvas. I don’t like the pre-fab bag shit.

  • After three years this is the first year I’m having these types of issues. I appreciate your help. I’m in the desert in another state so I don’t know if thrips are my problem…as a matter of fact I don’t know what a thrip is, guess I should google it. Still not sure how much epsoms salt to use……….guess I’ll just figure it out.

  • After three years this is the first year I’m having these types of issues. I appreciate your help. I’m in the desert in another state so I don’t know if thrips are my problem…as a matter of fact I don’t know what a thrip is, guess I should google it. Still not sure how much epsoms salt to use……….guess I’ll just figure it out.

  • i’m growing my first plant at the mo, she’s about 6foot tall and is already in her 3week of flowering now i do have a qestion with a problem. the problem is i have leaves starting to turn purple at the tips, i have look at google and tryed to find a soulution. i am growing indoors and i’m not using lights or anything else i have grown this plant naturally. Anyways can you tell me if its natural for the leaves to start turning purple or is there a fault somewhere, if so may i have a solution plz as to whats going on and how to treat it. i am checking tomorrow to see if i am watering to much if it is a fugacide for instants i will check the bottom of the stem for disclouration and to see if its soft by touch. anyways i hope you might be able to help on as to why my leaves are turning a purple colour at the end of the leave tips.

  • i’m growing my first plant at the mo, she’s about 6foot tall and is already in her 3week of flowering now i do have a qestion with a problem. the problem is i have leaves starting to turn purple at the tips, i have look at google and tryed to find a soulution. i am growing indoors and i’m not using lights or anything else i have grown this plant naturally. Anyways can you tell me if its natural for the leaves to start turning purple or is there a fault somewhere, if so may i have a solution plz as to whats going on and how to treat it. i am checking tomorrow to see if i am watering to much if it is a fugacide for instants i will check the bottom of the stem for disclouration and to see if its soft by touch. anyways i hope you might be able to help on as to why my leaves are turning a purple colour at the end of the leave tips.

  • Natural. Bad purpling usu happens in veg.

    • thanks dude i wish i had that info this morn i did research on comp and figured i was watering to much and it picked up an infection of some sort but hey i got rid of the leaves now i’m left a little gutted but thx on the next time this occurs i will know now just to leave it as is. i do have a little 1 growing at mo its only 2weeks old but coming on strong and healthy. this site really helps frist time growers and i will recomend it to any of my pals that have problems so cheers mate for the help. my 6 foot northern i took only 15% off the plant so hopefully she’ll still produce but yer purple leaves ok keep next time well noted. thx again

      • You don’t got to cut leaves. There’s been major debate on this. I can prolly cover every situation.

        #1 get a magnifying glass, #2 spot treat actual infections and #3 go easy on the plant if it is not an infection as cutting stress will magnify culture stress. Infection vs. normal pigment variation is obvious under magnification.

        If it is just color change that you don’t like and it is being caused by an overdose on something, the next leaf up is gonna look like that if you kill the first one before the plant cleans itself out.

        Chlorosis can be from too much food, too much water, wrong pH, etc. The plant can’t get certain nutrients through the roots so it pulls them out of lower leaves to use for photosynthesis at the top. That previous bit is the thing to remember. Plants don’t live off roots or dirt, they live off photosynthesis. Giving them bat shit is just tryna strike a good balance for capturing light. Any leaf that you can see is capturing some light and doing more good than harm.

        If the plant is clean as hell and the leaf removal is structural or to ventilate like in SOG/SCROG, then it matters much less.

        • ok mr nice thx for the help and i will check more further to see if there is damage. i wish as i said i’d of known this befor well i guess its a learning curve to you think she’ll still produce coz i sure hope so. thx again bud oh qestion how offten shall i water my plants and by how much please.

          • Get a moisture meter. Seriously.

            Don’t do too much perlite unless you plan to recover the feed, pH it and reuse it. For waste drain, works better for root systems if you use something that will bind water up but won’t waterlog it. Them water crystals work good but there is a kind that is all “Green” and “Biodegradable” that you do not want to buy for anything you are going to eat or smoke.

            • kk mate cheers mr nice ya helped a lot. the second plant. i’m not making the same mistakes on the second 1 as i have with the first. thx for all ya help, i’m glad my research brang me to this site. its help me out loads. my first is doing ok still producing and i’m sure will eventually finish. thx again for the info and take care.

        • Mr. Nice,

          I’m going to have to get you a regular guest spot here. I have no clue about these types of questions and you and the others obviously do.

          Thanks you all.

          • yeah i think you should defo put a spot here for mr nice. he’s helped me out a whole lot. and im sure he’ll help others out too. espec beginners that have all these qestions about white fly, spider mites, bad purple shit on leaves during veg and all those other little things that can occur. i bet you’ll even get the qestion once in a blue moon how can ya tell if its male or female. easy males have bulbs(balls) and females have hairy arm pits lol but yer save him a spot i think he’ll do well here.

  • Natural. Bad purpling usu happens in veg.

    • thanks dude i wish i had that info this morn i did research on comp and figured i was watering to much and it picked up an infection of some sort but hey i got rid of the leaves now i’m left a little gutted but thx on the next time this occurs i will know now just to leave it as is. i do have a little 1 growing at mo its only 2weeks old but coming on strong and healthy. this site really helps frist time growers and i will recomend it to any of my pals that have problems so cheers mate for the help. my 6 foot northern i took only 15% off the plant so hopefully she’ll still produce but yer purple leaves ok keep next time well noted. thx again

      • You don’t got to cut leaves. There’s been major debate on this. I can prolly cover every situation.

        #1 get a magnifying glass, #2 spot treat actual infections and #3 go easy on the plant if it is not an infection as cutting stress will magnify culture stress. Infection vs. normal pigment variation is obvious under magnification.

        If it is just color change that you don’t like and it is being caused by an overdose on something, the next leaf up is gonna look like that if you kill the first one before the plant cleans itself out.

        Chlorosis can be from too much food, too much water, wrong pH, etc. The plant can’t get certain nutrients through the roots so it pulls them out of lower leaves to use for photosynthesis at the top. That previous bit is the thing to remember. Plants don’t live off roots or dirt, they live off photosynthesis. Giving them bat shit is just tryna strike a good balance for capturing light. Any leaf that you can see is capturing some light and doing more good than harm.

        If the plant is clean as hell and the leaf removal is structural or to ventilate like in SOG/SCROG, then it matters much less.

        • ok mr nice thx for the help and i will check more further to see if there is damage. i wish as i said i’d of known this befor well i guess its a learning curve to you think she’ll still produce coz i sure hope so. thx again bud oh qestion how offten shall i water my plants and by how much please.

          • Get a moisture meter. Seriously.

            Don’t do too much perlite unless you plan to recover the feed, pH it and reuse it. For waste drain, works better for root systems if you use something that will bind water up but won’t waterlog it. Them water crystals work good but there is a kind that is all “Green” and “Biodegradable” that you do not want to buy for anything you are going to eat or smoke.

            • kk mate cheers mr nice ya helped a lot. the second plant. i’m not making the same mistakes on the second 1 as i have with the first. thx for all ya help, i’m glad my research brang me to this site. its help me out loads. my first is doing ok still producing and i’m sure will eventually finish. thx again for the info and take care.

        • Mr. Nice,

          I’m going to have to get you a regular guest spot here. I have no clue about these types of questions and you and the others obviously do.

          Thanks you all.

          • yeah i think you should defo put a spot here for mr nice. he’s helped me out a whole lot. and im sure he’ll help others out too. espec beginners that have all these qestions about white fly, spider mites, bad purple shit on leaves during veg and all those other little things that can occur. i bet you’ll even get the qestion once in a blue moon how can ya tell if its male or female. easy males have bulbs(balls) and females have hairy arm pits lol but yer save him a spot i think he’ll do well here.

  • looks fine to me. I can’t tell from a picture.

  • looks fine to me. I can’t tell from a picture.

  • Yeah….it seems the little white spots cleared up and they are growing but now the tips of the leaves are drying out and turning a sort of tan color. One of the babies I brought in later had the tips of the leaves cut off (I should have known) and what ever it is seems to be tearing that plant up and spreading to the other two. Its’ three differnt strains. I may have over done it with the epsoms salts and the last waterings I drenched them with fresh, ph balanced water. Root gnats keep coming back but the Go-gnats seems to keep them at bay. I watered around the roots with the GN and was wondeirng it that could be the problem or if it was something that might have come in with that last baby. The last baby is also the one with the biggest problem. Almost every leaf is infected, while the other two only have a couple of leaves with the problem.

    • If anybody ever tells you to do anything with epsom salt in regards to your soil grown marijuana plants, put it in whatever they’re drinking instead.

  • Yeah….it seems the little white spots cleared up and they are growing but now the tips of the leaves are drying out and turning a sort of tan color. One of the babies I brought in later had the tips of the leaves cut off (I should have known) and what ever it is seems to be tearing that plant up and spreading to the other two. Its’ three differnt strains. I may have over done it with the epsoms salts and the last waterings I drenched them with fresh, ph balanced water. Root gnats keep coming back but the Go-gnats seems to keep them at bay. I watered around the roots with the GN and was wondeirng it that could be the problem or if it was something that might have come in with that last baby. The last baby is also the one with the biggest problem. Almost every leaf is infected, while the other two only have a couple of leaves with the problem.

    • If anybody ever tells you to do anything with epsom salt in regards to your soil grown marijuana plants, put it in whatever they’re drinking instead.

  • Yeah….it seems the little white spots cleared up and they are growing but now the tips of the leaves are drying out and turning a sort of tan color.

    Root fungus. Little plants get that easy.

    One of the babies I brought in later had the tips of the leaves cut off (I should have known) and what ever it is seems to be tearing that plant up and spreading to the other two.

    Serious? Clones always got the tips clipped to keep them from drying out.

    Its’ three differnt strains. I may have over done it with the epsoms salts and the last waterings

    Maybe I should try and explain this epsom salt thing.

    Epsoms don’t cure other problems. If a plant is dying, magnesium ain’t gon fix all that.

    Mg is the key atom in all chlorophylls. Chlorophyll A for instance is C55H72O5N4Mg. Magnesium has an ionic bond with Nitrogen that is the heart of the structure. Chlorophyll productions falls flat without magnesium.

    With epsom salts you gotta use a dilute solution slowly until chlorophyll production starts back up. Unlike NPK, there is no magic number for plant stages as if a plant is mag def it won’t be able to make good use of NPK anyway. Epsom like this is gentle as it doesn’t do much else. I’ve heard people say introducing more ions is bad but I’ve never seen someone really mess anything up with epsom salts in reasonable doses.

    Regular dirt has plenty of mag but it can get locked up in unbalanced nutrient concetrations causing plants to go deficient. The obvious sign is chlorosis in between leaf sections. Like you got one part of the leaf that looks fine and the next part is bleached out and not in any uniform way.

    Try remixing a new soil and use some dolomite to buffer the pH. That will add available magnesium at the same time from the dolomite.

    I drenched them with fresh, ph balanced water. Root gnats keep coming back but the Go-gnats seems to keep them at bay.

    Root fungus. What is happening is algae is growing in the medium. Tthem flies eat that and in the process mess up the roots. Once the roots are torn, fungus grows on the tears. Then flies come back and eat that fungus.

    Two stages to eliminating this problem. First you gotta kill off the fly eggs with that mosquito Bt strain. They sell the granules for that all over. Then you gotta use something to kill the fungus. Neem seed will work if the plant is small enough. Quats or chlorine will work but you gotta be real careful on your dilution, much more than epsom salts.

    I watered around the roots with the GN and was wondeirng it that could be the problem or if it was something that might have come in with that last baby. The last baby is also the one with the biggest problem. Almost every leaf is infected, while the other two only have a couple of leaves with the problem.

    Is the scraggy clone the one you’ve had longest?

    • No offense, but this is what bad pics get you. Reader diagnosis: nutrient lockout, powdery mildew, chlorosis, root rot, bugs…it’s the friggin apocalypse in your garden!

  • Yeah….it seems the little white spots cleared up and they are growing but now the tips of the leaves are drying out and turning a sort of tan color.

    Root fungus. Little plants get that easy.

    One of the babies I brought in later had the tips of the leaves cut off (I should have known) and what ever it is seems to be tearing that plant up and spreading to the other two.

    Serious? Clones always got the tips clipped to keep them from drying out.

    Its’ three differnt strains. I may have over done it with the epsoms salts and the last waterings

    Maybe I should try and explain this epsom salt thing.

    Epsoms don’t cure other problems. If a plant is dying, magnesium ain’t gon fix all that.

    Mg is the key atom in all chlorophylls. Chlorophyll A for instance is C55H72O5N4Mg. Magnesium has an ionic bond with Nitrogen that is the heart of the structure. Chlorophyll productions falls flat without magnesium.

    With epsom salts you gotta use a dilute solution slowly until chlorophyll production starts back up. Unlike NPK, there is no magic number for plant stages as if a plant is mag def it won’t be able to make good use of NPK anyway. Epsom like this is gentle as it doesn’t do much else. I’ve heard people say introducing more ions is bad but I’ve never seen someone really mess anything up with epsom salts in reasonable doses.

    Regular dirt has plenty of mag but it can get locked up in unbalanced nutrient concetrations causing plants to go deficient. The obvious sign is chlorosis in between leaf sections. Like you got one part of the leaf that looks fine and the next part is bleached out and not in any uniform way.

    Try remixing a new soil and use some dolomite to buffer the pH. That will add available magnesium at the same time from the dolomite.

    I drenched them with fresh, ph balanced water. Root gnats keep coming back but the Go-gnats seems to keep them at bay.

    Root fungus. What is happening is algae is growing in the medium. Tthem flies eat that and in the process mess up the roots. Once the roots are torn, fungus grows on the tears. Then flies come back and eat that fungus.

    Two stages to eliminating this problem. First you gotta kill off the fly eggs with that mosquito Bt strain. They sell the granules for that all over. Then you gotta use something to kill the fungus. Neem seed will work if the plant is small enough. Quats or chlorine will work but you gotta be real careful on your dilution, much more than epsom salts.

    I watered around the roots with the GN and was wondeirng it that could be the problem or if it was something that might have come in with that last baby. The last baby is also the one with the biggest problem. Almost every leaf is infected, while the other two only have a couple of leaves with the problem.

    Is the scraggy clone the one you’ve had longest?

    • No offense, but this is what bad pics get you. Reader diagnosis: nutrient lockout, powdery mildew, chlorosis, root rot, bugs…it’s the friggin apocalypse in your garden!

    • mmmm…..I didn’t post a pic. of the last clone. The two I posted I got the same day and I have never had one come with clipped tips. I started with seed a couple of years ago and got three out of the four I had to come up female. The fourth didn’t germinate but they all did fairly well until I switched soil (not much production), then last Dec. I got 5 generics in SanFran, from a friend and they did great until the first really hot day and within 24 hours all but one was dead, thats when I figured out the root gnat infestation. The little bit of product I did get was great, but very little and not fully matured. The last one of those just died a couple of days ago and I did find a mushroom in the soil. I was hoping to clone it but was waiting for the weather to cool because its hard to get them to start in the summer here (desert.)

      Its so dry here if I let the soil dry all the way out they die immediately. I need a happy medium. I try to get them through veg. without lights then move them under lights for flowering because growing outside is just not going to happen here. (Nosy Neighbors) Plenty of sun where they hang even if its indoor. The other ones were beautiful but between the heat (barometric pressure drop over night) and the root gnats they just couldn’t take it.

      I really appreaciate your help and will try re-potting. I only have the three so we’ll see how they do.

      I am using “Root Organics” soil, which I had heard was some of the best. I didn’t start having any of these probelms until I started using it. I guess I will try and repot them all and go back to the mixure I was using before that I made up from a cow manure top soil mixed with some other “potting soils”. Our climate may cause problems with that soil.

      Thanks for all your help.

      • yeah, I apologize for pretty much speed reading most of this thread, but it’s getting unecessarily complicated. You had it going on before without hassle…so unless there’s something intrinsicatallyy wrong the clones you got (I’ve heard ‘reliable source’ enough times to take it with a grain of salt and a tablespoon full of tobasco sauce), the problem doesn’t have to be corrected by doing anything you weren’t doing before…that will only fug you up as you go, because you’re throwing more formulas into the equation IMHO. Rots of ruck!

  • Ok…here’s the deal. I lied (sorry didn’t mean to) about the soil. Is not “root organics” but Fox Farms Ocean. Still going to switch bac to my own mix. I repotted last night and so far they have survived the day. Usually if I screw up the die within 24 hours…..we’ll see. The weather has cooled and I think I did a good job de bugging and de molding………

    Thanks for all you help.

  • Ok…here’s the deal. I lied (sorry didn’t mean to) about the soil. Is not “root organics” but Fox Farms Ocean. Still going to switch bac to my own mix. I repotted last night and so far they have survived the day. Usually if I screw up the die within 24 hours…..we’ll see. The weather has cooled and I think I did a good job de bugging and de molding………

    Thanks for all you help.

  • Aw yea you shouldn’t use that Ocean Forest stuff with little plants it has too much calcium in it. Especially not straight up. Use some kinna coir-based mix stuff until they got a few Godzilla leaves.

  • Aw yea you shouldn’t use that Ocean Forest stuff with little plants it has too much calcium in it. Especially not straight up. Use some kinna coir-based mix stuff until they got a few Godzilla leaves.

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